Ada

7 09 2009

Two weeks ago today, Susan suffered a grave injury. I wasn’t there to see it happen. One moment, she was healthy and happy, and I stepped out for a few minutes to return to her completely unresponsive. I even thought she might be dead. I shook her, anxiously waiting for any response, any sign she might recover. But though there still were some faint sounds of life, she gave no indication of coming back. Susan was sick, very sick, and I didn’t know what to do about it.

Susan is an HP dv9700 series laptop, which I purchased about eighteen months ago. Susan replaced her aging and increasingly finicky predecessor, Naoko, a Dell Inspiron 9300 purchased in June of 2005, who had become more and more a crotchety old spinster. At times, she would shout with her cacophonous fans, she refused to actually go anywhere, as her battery refused to hold charge, and when you asked her to boot up, well, she was going to get around to it on her own time, thank you very much. Naoko’s only task now is to serve, essentially, as a DVD player connected to the television, a task which, despite her tempers, she is able to perform admirably to this day. Over the course of these last eighteen months, however, Susan seemed to have retained most of her youthful vigor. So long as I have provided her with a fresh operating system every six months or so, she has performed loyally, with few of the signs of decrepitude that seem to creep so quickly into laptops.

Nevertheless, I was dissatisfied in some respects with the quality of Susan’s performance. Her effort has always been excellent – she tries, oh, how she does. But there is only so much computing power that can be fit into a machine of her size and power requirement, and my hunger for computation is deep and grumbling. Susan has always delivered as much performance as she was designed to give, but it was not always enough. I am being intentionally vague here, but know that I had begun to contemplate the nature of her successor machine, and had come to the decision some months ago to acquire a desktop machine. I have not used a desktop as my primary machine since Naoko came into my life over four years ago. Before her was Sal the Second, a stalwart desktop computer of my own construction who yet stands, as a ghostly visage, at the back of my closet, a reminder of an era past, legendary and grand.

Contemplating a desktop again evoked the pride and heroism of this age, a time when my machine was mine, an artifact crafted of my own labor from parts selected through study and scrutiny. One never knows their computer as well as when they build it themselves – every unique nuance of the machine becomes like the habit of a lover, familiar and comforting even when it is inconvenient or hard. There is a freedom, as well, that cannot be bought in a constructed machine – every aspect of the machine is changeable, every part replaceable, every variable mutable. And, of course, there is the pride of workmanship.

So this summer I decided that I would build a new desktop machine sometime this fall – I was thinking October or November. I had come to the conclusion that trying to purchase high performance laptops to function as primary machines was futile, and that I would never be able to replicate the computational capacity of a desktop while maintaining mobility. The proper way to do it, I decided, was to have two computers – a powerful desktop as the primary machine, and a small, lightweight laptop to be used only as a mobile work platform for school and business. Naoko and Susan had both been hybrids of these, with mid-range computational capacity while remaining fairly heavy, hot, and short-winded. With Susan, I had become dissatisfied with this model – it was time for a reversion to the ways of old.

But it was for a different time – later, when I had become settled into the habits of grad school, and had enough money accumulated to easily absorb the cost of the monster I had in mind. But two weeks ago, on the evening of my first day of grad school, Susan had her terrible injury, and I was forced to contemplate the newcomer early.

Susan contains a GeForce 8600M graphics processing system. This device interfaces Susan’s display with the rest of her components, and without it, Susan is dumb – she cannot display anything on her screen. The GeForce 8600M contains a G84M GPU, which has been identified of late as a chip which appears to be prone to a relatively high failure rate after about 12-18 months. In the last few months, a large number of people with this particular type of graphics set in their laptops have reported complete graphical failure – their screen simply do not display anything.

I was not aware of any of this about the GeForce 8600M two weeks ago. Susan was happily displaying all manner of beautiful graphics, and I was quite content with them. As I said, however, I left the room briefly at one point to return to a blank screen. Nothing I did would cause any change in the state of the screen, which I thought was very odd. Eventually, I hard-booted the machine through the power switch, and watched for Susan to boot up fine, as computers are wont to do after scaring you with some near-fatal error. However, this time, nothing came up. She made all the normal booting-up sounds, and her drive activity light blinked furiously, as though she were trying very hard at something. I connected a spare external display to her VGA port, and then to her DVI port, to no avail. Fearing that some problem had occurred with the CPU or hard drives, I hard-booted again and waited while the lights blinked and drives whirred. Eventually, the sounds stopped, and the drive activity light went dark. Tentatively, I typed my Windows login password, and pressed enter.

The drive activity light started blinking. The drives started whirring. Susan could still boot, and she could still hear me. Susan wasn’t dead – she was only maimed.

Some looking about online through Keith’s computer showed us the information about the 8600M and the G84M. The problem is widespread enough that some laptop manufacturers have begun issuing contingency warranty extensions on certain models for problems related to this graphics system, including Apple, Sony, and yes, even HP. However, when looking at the models covered by HP’s contingency offering, the dv9700 in absent – Susan is not covered for free. And folks with Susan’s brethren online were quoting $300-400 to repair the offending hardware.

Initially, there was a bit of panic in me. O, what fate! I would be denied a computer for several days, perhaps more than a week, while I waited for Susan’s transit to and from HP’s repair center, and it would cost me several hundred dollars to affect the repair. But it occurred to me almost immediately – the successor machine. I was set to build it in a few months anyway, and why spend an extra $400 now to preserve Susan until her eventual phasing out? In a fashion very uncharacteristic of me, I made a snap decision – now was the time. The new machine would be built, and it would be built now! I temporarily stirred Naoko from her retirement, and went about choosing the parts for my new machine.

Choosing parts took me almost two days, which was still a very short time, I feel. In that time, however, I was able to satisfy myself with my decisions. The new desktop would be a monster, the most powerful machine I had ever owned, even relative to the technology available at the time. I submitted the order on Wednesday of that week, and waited impatiently for the following Monday, when my parts were expected to arrive.

So one week ago, my new system arrived, embryonic and fragmented, mere seeds which needed to be planted together in order to become fertile. It was with great apprehension that day that I put together all these parts, partly because I was afraid of some slip of the hand that would rend asunder the delicate threads of gold and silicon I toyed with, and partly also because it had been many years since the construction of Sal the Second, and I wasn’t sure I remembered how it all went together – indeed, many things have changed. (One thing that hasn’t changed is the alarming amount of force required to push some of the chips and connectors securely in place. I don’t think I will ever get used to that – these are delicate instruments, after all.) However, something else well out of my control also weighed heavily on my mind – the threat of the dreaded DOA. Some computer components arrive dead-on-arrival, and the only recourse then is to issue a request with the distributor for a replacement. It would cost me nothing, but it was dreaded all the same for its inconvenience and because it might not be obvious which part was DOA if there was such a problem – motherboard problems might look an awful lot like CPU problems. I estimated a fairly low failure rate for my essential components – even my optimistic estimate only gave me even odds of having no failed parts.

However, I had another problem Monday. Everything assembled and in the case, I went to connect all the power connectors so that I could boot the system for the first time. I had searched carefully for a power supply – my graphics card specifically requires two PCI-E power connectors, and few power supplies have this, so it was my primary search criterion. I connected these without issue, and was pleased with the way everything fit in there. However, something I had not used as a search criterion was a CPU power connector. When I constructed Sal the Second, such things did not even exist – there was a single large plug that went to the motherboard. Now there is one to power the motherboard, and a smaller, separate connector providing power to the CPU. For the past few years, this has been a 4-pin 12-volt connector, which my power supply had. However, the CPU/motherboard combination I had purchased was of a new design, and it required a new 8-pin connector.

Sigh.

Keith and I searched a bit online, and found that the voltage requirements are still the same – 12 volts. Furthermore, since old-style molex connectors are also 12 volts, it is possible to adapt one to the other. And indeed, such adapters exist – I purchased one right away for a pittance, and waited several days again for it to arrive.

On Friday, finally, I installed the necessary connector and switched the system on for the first time, with a Windows 7 disc in the optical drive to begin installing my operating system right away. After an excruciating few seconds, there was the characteristic beep that indicated the post test was complete and successful. And a few seconds later, my new computer was informing me that she was booting from the DVD in the drive. Some time later, Windows 7 was installed and booting properly, and initial checks of the system seemed to indicate what I had only given myself a half chance of occurring – no DOA components! Everything was talking, and everything was giving a thumbs up. The system breathed her first breaths that night, and they were fresh and even.

With her successful boot, however, I wasn’t out of the woods. Yesterday, I began the process of extracting necessary information from Susan’s hard drives, and transferring it to the new system. However, I cannot see anything on Susan, of course – I could not just transfer the information to external drives, and use them to dump the data on the new computer. I would have no way to accessing anything on Susan. Surgery was necessary. My plan was simply to remove Susan’s hard drives through panels on her underside, and connect them directly to my new system by internal connections, one at a time, to access the information directly. Simple enough.

When I opened up the bottom panels on Susan, however, I was treated to a surprise. On the hard drives therein, where I expected standard SATA connectors, there was a strange comb-connector device that I had never seen before. It looked proprietary – oh, how I loathe proprietary connections. I reasoned, however, that surely it must simply be some special laptop connector – to be sure, the way the connections fit together with these copper combs, bulky cables and plastic connector heads are obviated, perfect for fitting into a laptop. If they were standard to laptops, that gave me one option – Naoko.

I raced through the process in my mind. For Susan’s C-drive, containing a functional operating system, I would need to install the hard drive in Naoko’s single drive bay, and boot up the system. I could then transfer any files I needed to an external drive, and use that to move data to the new system. For Susan’s D-drive, however, without a functional operating system, the process would need to get complicated. If I installed that drive in Naoko, I would not be able to boot up. I would need to format one of my external USB drives, and install an operating system to it. I would then need to connect this device to Naoko, and alter her boot order to try to get her to boot to the external device, a task I’m not even sure is possible with her hardware. Then I could access the internal drive from Susan, and transfer the necessary information to the bootable external drive. Not so simple anymore.

After going through this whole process in my mind and becoming thoroughly disgusted by the complexity of it, I noticed something odd about the comb connectors on Susan’s drives. Tentatively, I pried at one of them. An adapter! It came off! And behold, below this bizarre and distasteful nonstandard connection – SATA ports! A sigh of relief issued from my lips, and I went about my original plan, which proceeded without incident. With all my essential information transferred and moved to the proper places, I could finally call my new system complete.

Her name is Ada. She is named for Lady Lovelace, the 19th century logician and mathematician frequently credited as the world’s first computer programmer. Lovelace corresponded regularly with Charles Babbage, designer of the mechanical Analytical Engine, and actually wrote programs for it, though the machine was never actually constructed during hers or Babbage’s lifetimes. Since then, however, the machine has been built, and Lovelace’s programs have proven to do exactly what she claimed they would be capable of, making them the first functional programs for a general purpose computer, written during the 1840s.

She runs a Core i7 920 processor on an EVGA X58 SLI LE motherboard with 6gb of Corsair DDR3-1600 RAM running in triple channel mode. Her graphics are displayed via a factory-overclocked MSI GeForce GTX275 with a heat pipe cooling block, which communicates with an Asus 21.5″ 1080p LCD display. Ada has a total of 4TB of storage space in two Western Digital 1TB hard drives, and one Seagate 2TB drive. Ada is cooled comfortably by one 140mm and three 120mm case fans. She runs quieter than Sal the Second ever did, and quieter than Naoko does anymore. Susan, admittedly, was always the softest talker. I liked that.

I’ll miss Susan. She went before her time. Though really, I suppose I shouldn’t speak of her as though she were dead – she is repairable. However, right now, I don’t think I’m willing to spend the money to have her mended. Ada is a beautiful monster, and I don’t think I need Susan right now. I will, however, continue to watch HP’s website – I’m holding out hope that they will extend their offer of contingency to the dv9700 series. When that happens, not a moment will pass before I ship Susan off to receive repairs. In the meantime, however, I don’t need a mobile computer. Ada, this sessile beast, is handling things quite well.





Maximizing Socializability

31 08 2009

My life has become busy enough of late that I find myself now required to write about events some days past, which is something I prefer not to do. It is much more preferable for myself, and likely for the reader, if I write about events which have just transpired, so that they may be fresh and detailed. Writing on Europe became painful near the end, because so much time had passed since I had arrived back in the States that I was struggling to remember just what order things had occurred in. I believe my final account to be accurate, but I cannot be certain, and this troubles me.

I find, however, that matters of emotional abstraction are profound enough as to defy forgetfulness, and two weeks ago held enough such impact to remain, at least in its relevant details, fairly whole in my mind. The week a fortnight past was Rice’s orientation week, when all the new students come on campus to become familiarized with the details of the University, fill out a bunch of paperwork, and formalize their enrollment. However, in addition to all that, there’s a social dimension to orientation week which dominates the campus. There are all manner of meet-and-greets, barbecues, and department dinner galas to get people across campus to meet each other and their professors and staff.

I remember, now four years past, my orientation week as a freshman coming in to Rice for my undergraduate education. For the undergrads, orientation week focuses precious little on the formal aspects of University orientation, with just a tiny sliver of time each day devoted to such mundane tasks as choosing a major and making sure all the bills are paid. The majority of that week is consumed by what can best be described as a week-long semi-organized block party, engineered expressly to keep the freshman class busy every waking moment of every day of the week. One must understand as well the residential college system of Rice, which makes the dorms into much more than places to sleep, but into full-on communities with cultures, politics, rituals, and legend. We do not have the Greek organizations at Rice – the colleges more or less obviate their existence. And during orientation week, they feel much as I imagine a fraternity might – the freshmen are subjected to activities and rituals which certainly resemble hazing initiations, apart from the fact that one is, technically, anyway, not required to participate. Apart from that, there are all manner of other activities and events which seem expertly designed to make people feel awkward and get them to talk out and act out in ways they wouldn’t normally do – not in front of three hundred strangers, anyway.

I remember not especially enjoying orientation as a freshman, though I will admit to being completely unprepared for it. Psychologically, I mean. Coming to Rice initially, I had just gotten through a fairly lonely and quietly depressing summer. This was largely because I was coming to terms with the realization that the entirety of my social pyramid was getting ready to collapse – or, at any rate, getting ready to cease being relevant. I was aware already that the people which I presently counted as my best friends would soon become but footnotes in the history of me, and this was a depressing prospect that took some getting used to. It was not something that was good to think about for too long when I had nothing to do all day but sit at my computer and brood. So I admit to arriving at Rice in a somewhat dark and surly mood. It’s not that I wasn’t happy to come to Rice and start college – it was merely that I was still far too profoundly aware of the loss I would, of necessity, suffer as a result of this new stage in my life. But I had just started to come to terms with it. Though I was still, preemptively, perhaps, in mourning for my lost relationships, I remember assuring myself it was for the best and that now, finally, I could get down to the business of being an adult.

Orientation week at Rice, for the freshmen, is not the sort of event that works well with this mentality. The vestiges of a thwarted depression clashed horribly with the giddy insincerity in the cheerfulness of the upperclassmen there to greet us and steer us around campus. Nor was my resolved determination to start being an “adult” congruent with the bizarre cartoonishness of the orientation ice-breaker games, pep-rally-esque public events, and ridiculous totally-not-hazing rituals. I did not appreciate the attempt at structured happiness that was being imposed on me, and I certainly did not feel that I had the freedom I sought to console my loss. And so I did not enjoy my time at orientation week – it was all loud, bright insanity, when all I wanted was quiet, reserved dignity. It was, for the most part, more of the same quasi-social exhibitory nonsense that I had left behind at high school – except now my friends weren’t around to endure it with me. I don’t recall actually making many friends until some time after that week, when things calmed down a bit and I was able to get myself sorted out psychologically. It took more time than it should have needed to.

Two weeks ago, however, was orientation week again, but this time, of course, I came in with the graduate students. My attitude going into this new orienation was quite different than four years ago – for weeks, I’ve actually been looking forward to it. I spent much of my summer living alone and socializing sparingly, and saw the opportunity to meet new people as a means to alleviate some of the malaise. More to the point, I have once again lost a significant portion of my social network, this time to the emigration of my recently graduated friends. I saw orientation week as an opportunity to build the foundation of a new social pyramid, and make some new friends right away, hopefully outside of my own department.

Graduate orientation week, I feel, was conducted the way it should be. There were formalities to address – getting ID cards, attending information seminars, listening to terribly boring speeches by the administration, and of course, gettings our finances all in order. These, however, still consumed precious little of the week – one or two events related to these would occur on each day. Another thing I would say is that all this business was dealt with in a very, well, businesslike fashion – terse and to the point. I liked it. It was expedient, most importantly, which allowed us all more time to deal with the real issues of orientation week, that is, the socializing.

This time, even the social events were less formal than they were for undergraduate orientation. Now, the kinds of social events which occurred four years ago at undergraduate orientation looked like spontaneous frothing pots of ludicrous college cheers and people willfully humiliating themselves. They looked like parties, shindigs, and mixers. They certainly appeared to be informal in every aspect – but they were not. No, because they were still structured – these social engagements were engineered affairs, with every detail of interaction planned and prescribed ahead of time by the orientation coordinators, upperclassmen who go out of their way to make “O-week,” as it’s called, a flawlessly directed theater of artificed fun. The formality with which O-week is conducted may be seen as ironic, for the unspoken rules of engagement and the nature of the social activities planned are such as to give the impression of informality. But that’s just it – it’s engineered informality, which requires planning and rules to maintain.

This time, social engagements usually carried little more instruction than “be at X at around Y o’clock; there will be food.” And this is exactly the way it should be. These kinds of mixers are easy and truly informal, with genuine, unforced conversation. But of course, perhaps most importantly, this time I had an eager willingness to socialize, and a real desire to make friends. That week, most of my time was spent in this way, standing about among large groups of people, introducing myself countless times and doing exactly what should be done at mixers – mixing. The O-week formalism is mixed from without – the coordinators stirred us as with mighty paddles, counting their strokes to ensure an even texture. But real humans prefer to mix by diffusion, individuals traversing a random walk through the social medium. Food, coffee, beer, and music may have been added as catalysts for this process, but ultimately, we were left to our devices, and fared quite well for it. It was all very dignified.

I had some amount of apprehension before orientation, however, though of a sort unrelated to my experience at the start of undergraduate. The sources of my apprehensions were of a different sort – no longer was there a psychological disjoint. Instead, I feared that I may actually undersocialize. Coming on orientation, I became resolved to interact as much as possible with people outside of the chemical engineering department, reasoning that it would be inevitable that I would become friends with everyone there – socializing with them overmuch during orientation would have been superfluous and unnecessary. After all, there were already events planned for just after that first week that involved my department exclusively – I could meet them there. So I thought it best, strangely, to avoid excessive interaction with members of my department that I might meet others while I had the chance.

Related to that, there was some anxiety going into orientation about how many people I would actually get to meet and befriend. It was all fine and good if I got outside my department and met a bunch of people, but with how many of these people would I actually interact with afterwards, when the week was all finished and I was cloistered inside my department? I found myself considering a paradoxical situation – I felt I needed to introduce myself to the maximum number of people to spread my social network over a wide area, but I also needed to spend a long time dealing with select individuals so that I might produce a friendship there. It seemed, at times, that it would be impossible, and I fretted much in the days leading up to orientation about which tack would give me the best long-term results – focused interaction, or widespread networking.

In the end, of course, it was straight informality that won out. I recognize, in hindsight, that much of the apprehension and scheming on my part prior to orientation was little more than an internalized version of the forced interaction I was subject to during undergraduate orientation. Social engagements, it seems, are quite difficult to engineer effectively, and I’ll admit that my skills are not up to it. Orientation went well, and I met a tremendous number of people, most of which, unfortunately, I did not really “befriend” in a real social sense. They are acquaintances now, and, as I anticipated, the people I am becoming closest with are those within my department. Despite what I’ve just said, I really do think I should have made a better effort to stay clear of chemical engineers the first week – there was an engineering mixer the second day, and though the place was crawling with bioengineers and computer scientists, I ended up meeting only a couple of them – I spent almost the whole time talking to chemical engineers.

This brings me to some observations about how people interact in these kinds of situations. On that first engineering mixer, we chemical engineers essentially formed a clique almost immediately. We gathered around, and talked amongst ourselves, but this was more or less unintentional. We just started talking, and, as it was informal, felt no immediate need to break it off. It would have been unnatural – naturally, the conversations continued and transformed, and we spoke very little with anyone else. I reflected on this later – the clique was an accident, borne of little more than a common field of study. Later in the week, when I observed the formation of cliques, such as the architects at a mixer outside the graduate pub, Valhalla, I thought again that these, too, must just be accidents. And indeed, they were – breaking a clique is surprisingly easy. They do not form around and exclude others from the conversation out of exclusivity – they do not realize they are doing it. When I walked into these circles and interrupted to introduce myself to these architects, or Taiwanese students, or whoever the clique was, I was not an intruder on a closed group – I was a smiling face, and the clique was immediately broken.

As the week came to a close, I found myself with a tremendous number of new acquaintances, but with precious few people whose future friendship I could yet anticipate. There were countless interesting conversations with many different people of all sorts, but few of these bore fruit of any kind – we would politely say farewell and part ways. I don’t think that the socializing I did through that week was useless – quite the contrary, it was enjoyable and I really did get to meet a great variety of people. I went to almost every social event I could find on campus, even a few that were meant for other departments, like chemistry and physics. But I think what I really learned was that even this kind of informal general socializing isn’t really the way to meet people, and really meet them. When I walked up to any random group of people at a mixer and introduced myself, I had, of course, no idea who I was beginning to talk to. I had no idea if I had anything in common with these people, and frequently, it would turn out that I didn’t really.

I know I’m framing this all in the social engineering set again, but to really maximize socializability, there needs to be some degree of foreknowledge. Why do the cliques form? Because everyone in the clique has something in common. They are not intentionally forming that way, no, but that’s what naturally happens. I thought it would be inevitable that I would be friends with the people in my department – I think that’s true. We all have so much in common. So to make friends, and not just acquaintances, I need this knowledge. I need to find people with whome I really have something in common beyond being a new graduate student, and having a desire to talk to people.

The mixers and events were great, and probably necessary. However, that isn’t the way. I’m still working on how to maximize my socializability. I might find it in clubs or organizations, or I might find it by just working on those acquaintances long enough. I don’t know yet, but I’m fairly confident. And I’m confident that this year’s orientation did what it needed to do. It was a good week, and it’ll be a good year.





Review: The Adventures of Pluto Nash

16 08 2009

Sigh.

Okay, so I’ve said before that I like bad movies. I enjoy the naiveté of the writing, the laughable quality of the special effects, and the grating self-consciousness of the wooden acting. I also take a certain pride in the extent of my knowledge about these kinds of films, a sort of pride I believe only a truly hopeless geek like myself can experience. Where others fill themselves with meaningless trivia about baseball, anime, or 80′s hair metal, I can talk about the plots and characters of some of the most laughably bad movies ever made. There is another kind of pride as well – the pride that comes from endurance, the stoic perseverance that is required to actually sit through some of these films in their entirety. With comprehension.

Usually, cultivating this hobby of mine means that I’m watching movies full of no-name actors by production studios that operate out of studios – studio apartments, that is. These are films with shoestring budgets and plots that are either so recycled as to be mangled self-parodies, or so “original” as to be nearly obviated by their asininity. As a result, I have knowledge of a fair number of films that the majority of people have never even heard of, films whose badness has not provided noteriety, but rather precluded it. Or, actually more frequently, my knowledge extends to movies which are, quite simply, before peoples’ time – films from the 1950′s and 1960′s, the golden age of the B-movie. However, it happens on occassion, that a film is released of great fame and noteriety, perhaps starring famous actors and produced by a major house, which is, nevertheless, abysmal, and these films do not escape my notice either. In fact, their noteriety makes them a greater target – one may find it just as difficult to trap a rare and beautiful bird on safari as to shoot an elephant, but people will likely be more impressed by the latter prize.

Pluto_NashAt times, however, I am not completely prepared for just how bad some movies can be. I recently learned that the 2002 film The Adventures of Pluto Nash, starring Eddie Murphy, produced by Castle Rock Entertainment and distributed by Warner Bros., netted the greatest financial loss of any film in history, in absolute terms. With a budget of about $120 million, The Adventures of Pluto Nash pulled in only $7 million, thus netting a loss of about $113 million! Clearly, this is not some unknown film by small-time companies with break-in actors – Eddie Murphy is a universally recognized comedian, Castle Rock Entertainment is a major television and movie production house, and Warner Bros. is, well, Warner Bros. And of course, it’s these big names that gave this movie the opportunity to be what it is – the greatest flop in history. Without big names, such a prodigious amount of money could never have been spent on such an ignoble venture. So of course, being the greatest movie flop in history, it drew me close, and seduced me with the promise of a real cinematic stinker.

Unfortunately, I must report that The Adventures of Pluto Nash is not a particularly entertaining film, but I have to admit, it’s hard to explain precisely why. The movie is one of those nefarious action-comedies, trying vainly to make light of a situation while also maintaining suspense and a sense of danger. I’ve not once seen a movie that managed to pull it off successfully – either the comedy falls flat, or the action ends of being a parody of itself, devoid of tension and completely unbelievable. (That is, unless one considers Pulp Fiction to be comedic, which is generally not the case. Pulp Fiction was funny, but not really comedic in the conventional sense. It was, however, an excellent movie.) In The Adventures of Pluto Nash, both occur. It’s clear to me that the movie is trying harder to be a comedy than it is to be an action flick – the action is almost melodramatic, with goofball characters swinging guns around haphazardly, and when the shootouts are over, we almost expect the hero to wipe his forehead with the back of his hand in exaggerated mock relief, as one might expect from a mime. It’s not particularly funny, and it’s certainly not exciting. In fact, the funniest thing about this movie is probably its soundtrack, which consists largely of classic adventure-movie music, the kind of thing you might expect from Indiana Jones or equivalent, but with a bunch of random highhats, synth beeps, and record scratches patched in to try and sound more “futuristic”.

The Adventures of Pluto Nash‘s utter failure as a movie might appear somewhat puzzling at first, as it has a fairly decent group of people working on it. It stars Eddie Murphy, a well-known and award-winning actor and comedian probably best known for his performances with Saturday Night Live during the 1980′s, as well as Rosario Dawson, who has also starred in such critically acclaimed films as Seven Pounds (2008), Sin City (2005), and the 2005 film adaptation of Rent. This pair is also accompanied on screen by Randy Quaid, Joe Pantoliano (who won an Emmy for his performance in The Sopranos (1999)), and the venerable John Cleese, famed actor and writer for Monty Python. Producers Martin and Michael Bregman have garnered considerable acclaim working on such films as Carlito’s Way (1993) and the classic Scarface (1983), while executive producer Bruce Berman also worked on the Matrix trilogy and the successful 2001 remake of Ocean’s Eleven. Even the soundtrack, which I found laughably inappropriate in almost every scene, was provided by John Powell, who provided a Grammy-award winning soundtrack to the family film Happy Feet (2006), as well as praiseworthy musical work for X-Men 3 (2006) and the Bourne trilogy. These are not nobodies, and they’re not bad at what they do.

The film starts to get a bit shaky with the writer and director, however. Director Ron Underwood gained fame from his direction and screenplay for the 1990 cult classic Tremors, but has since worked on few other projects of comparable note or quality. In 1998, he managed to get the direction bid for Mighty Joe Young, a children’s film by Disney that proved to be fairly successful, even if it wasn’t especially hailed by critics. In the gap between the production of Mighty Joe Young and Pluto Nash, Underwood worked on nothing else. The writing for Pluto Nash is spotty as well. The screenplay apparently began construction in the mid-1980′s, and underwent countless revisions and rewrites by a number of now-uncredited screenwriters before the final version was hauled from this chaotic prewritten morass by Neil Cuthbert. And what critcally acclaimed works has Cuthbert written? Good question – pity it doesn’t have an answer. The most notable work Cuthbert wrote for was the Disney family comedy Hocus Pocus (1993), which received shrugs and yawns from critics at the time.

The Adventures of Pluto Nash follows the eponymous nightclub owner (Eddie Murphy) as he attempts to outrun the mob after refusing to sell his successful establishment to their faceless boss. He is accompanied by randomly encountered female love interest Dina (Rosario Dawson) and bodyguard Bruno (Randy Quaid) through a number of cliche chase scenes and telegraphed shootouts until the inevitable climactic confrontation with the mob boss in his penthouse office. Nash is a former smuggler who unnecessarily steals a fancy car during the movie in order to escape and has no compunction at all over shooting numerous people, but he just can’t abide by the mob boss’ ultimate goal – gambling. Gasp! The events of the movie are drab and predictable enough that I don’t feel the need to go through all them here in great detail. The quickest of summaries: Nash acquires nightclub, seven years pass, Nash has successful nightclub, mob tries to buy nightclub, Nash refuses, nightclub gets blown up, shootout, Nash runs to motel to hide, mob finds him, shootout, Nash steals car, runs away to hideout, mob finds him, shootout, Nash runs away and almost gets lots, found my friendly smuggler, Nash is taken to mob sanctuary, Nash meets old friend who fails to help him, Nash meets mob boss by chance, mob boss provides final plot exposition, ridiculous fight scene, mob boss dies, end.

Oh, and did I mention that this entire movie takes place on the moon in the year 2087? I didn’t? Well, it’s honestly not that important. The science fiction aspects of the film provide little more than a colorful background to what is, essentially, a boring story about a nightclub owner and the mob. The futuristic setting also provides for some the film’s more embarassing attempts at comedy. The bodyguard, Bruno, is a robot, and is supposed to provide comic relief to the movie by being, well, a robot. Haw haw, he talks funny, and somebody called him a toaster. Haw haw, he’s apparently obsolete, haw haw. John Cleese has the unenviable role of the stolen car, which is sentient for some reason, and acts like a British chauffer. There are also a number of jokes unnecessarily lampshading a bunch of science fiction cliches cluttering the movie, like one about a freeze-dried dog, one about cloning Michael Jordan, and twice the same joke is made about it being really difficult to get wood on the moon (though apparently lobster and beef are no problem). And really, tired cliches about sum up the science fiction portion of this movie – it doesn’t really drive the plot that much, which mostly relies on lapses of logic and coincidence to keep moving. Instead, it’s just a bunch of stupid ideas taken from a bunch of other, better movies, strung together in an endless line of expository dialogue, constantly reminding the viewer that, hey, it’s the future, remember?

But all that being said, this isn’t really the worst movie I’ve seen. It’s bad – I mean, really genuinely bad. The kind of bad that isn’t entertaining. But it seems strange to me that it would be the biggest movie flop in history. A terrible film, perhaps. But was it really worth negative $113 million? No, because as innane as it was, there exists a group of people who I think might actually get a kick out of the horrible dialogue and fancy, pointless special effects of The Adventures of Pluto Nash.

I have this movie figured out. The reason it lost as much money as it did is because of one thing the movie has a lot of – swearing. “Swearing?”, you may ask. “Why does swearing matter?” Well, the profusity of swearing in The Adventures of Pluto Nash has earned it a PG-13 rating. There is some violence as well, but nothing explicit or gory – it’s all very light-hearted pew-pew laser stuff, about comparable to the fight scenes in Star Wars. There are also a couple of bawdy jokes, but nothing that couldn’t easily be euphemized or toned down. Basically what I’m getting at here is that without all the swearing, this movie could have easily come in at a PG rating. And that’s why it lost money – because apart from the swearing this is a PG movie. It’s meant for kids. Really! The humor is about the level that might be appreciated by Little Johnny and Suzy – a bunch of stupid puns, exaggerated gestures, silly sci-fi noises, and jerky robot walking. Plot holes and cliches hardly matter for the 6-13 demographic. They’ll be wowed by the fancy flying space cars and shiny lay-zer guns. If this had been a PG movie, and marketed towards a younger demographic, it might have actually been a pretty successful film.

However, Cuthbert decided that everyone should be swearing like sailors, so the movie got a PG-13 rating, which made it ostensibly an “adult” film. But it still lacked sophistication, and intelligence, and a plot, and the film is soaked through with juvenile humor that does nothing to help the unexciting and ultimately unbelievable action. People – adults – who saw it were justifiably disappointed, and the movie tanked.

The Adventures of Pluto Nash is an unexciting and unnecessarily science-fiction themed action comedy disaster. It’s not funny, and it’s not exciting, so there’s little else to expect from it. Unfortunately, the production quality is too high to garner any unintentional humor either, so worst of all, the film is simply not entertaining. The worst financial movie flop of all time, with a net loss of about $113 million, The Adventures of Pluto Nash is a mismarketed fiasco, better intended for children than adults, but unable to match that demographic due to its glut of swearing and asinine sexual humor. I like bad movies. I can still say that. But there are bad movies, and then there are movies that are just – bad.





Mechanical Hearts Should Be Cheaper in About Twenty Years Anyway

28 07 2009

Some months ago, I became enamored of a website called This is why you’re fat. It’s little more than a series of images of ridiculous foods, accompanied by a short description of the dish depicted, and sometimes bearing a link to a recipe or other post decribing the food in more detail. The dishes shown are not typical fare – they’re not supposed to be. The point of the website is to showcase absurd foods created expressly for decadence, size, and calorie content. Everything on This is why you’re fat is a heart attack waiting to happen, an orgy of cholesterol, peanut oil, and bacon. These are not gourmet dishes – common ingredients are bacon, ramen, and macaroni and cheese. These are, essentially, parody foods – or so I hope – created as much for amusement as for taste. They are what happens when somebody remarks, “well, I like X, and I like Y – what would happen if I put them together?” The answer to this question can be terrifying.

Normally, I tend to eschew excessively fatty foods, junk food, and fast food. This has as much to do with my taste for more esoteric and complex flavors as it has to do with my upbringing, which was rich with healthy eating indoctrination. Grease tends to turn me off to a dish, cheese is best when its flavorful but not too plentiful, vegetables are best steamed and unsalted, frying should never be “deep”, and a teaspoon of cumin improves a dish more than a tablespoon of oil. Cookies can usually be made with less butter, pan-searing can usually achieve what frying does, and why use coconut cream when coconut milk will suffice? Junk food is an unnecessary luxury, easily replaced by yogurt cups and oatty cereals, while fast food is utterly vestigial, an appendix passed over again and again with not the least consideration. It should be easy to understand, then, that some of my first reactions to the foods presented on This is why you’re fat were of revulsion – these foods were so alien to me, creatures of cholesterol, refined sugars, and rendered animal fat that it was hard, initially, to understand the appeal of these foods, beyond their obvious comical value.

However, perhaps because of that taboo effect, I was fascinated, and continued to visit the site to see new submissions. Like a bizarre sexual act, or a scene of horrible violence, This is why you’re fat provided a spectacle from which I simply could not turn away. And in time, I found myself even thinking about how those things on the site would taste, wondering how difficult it might be to replicate the dish myself, or thinking of new ideas, equally ridiculous and fattening, that I might try on my own. The appeal of This is why you’re fat went from being incomprehensible to being obvious – why wouldn’t you put gravy on a pizza? However, the desire to live out these perverted culinary fantasies remained a latent psychological abnormality, never surfacing to do any real damage to my arteries or GI tract. I could still look upon the images, fantasize, and laugh about the absurdity of other peoples’ food.

My mistake was letting other people in on the joke. Of course, it’s the kind of site that one shares with people – it is, after all, meant to be laughed at. And so all my friends became fans of the site as well, gazing in repulsed wonder at the fetishistic spectacle, and joining me in my speculation about foods we could create. Among those who joined me is a good friend of mine, Aditya, who is rather less inhibited than myself about – well, everything. And it was he who suggested late last week that we actually do it – he wanted to actually make something worthy of This is why you’re fat. And without thinking, without considering, without hesitating even, I agreed – it would be done. We would try to kill ourselves with food.

What we created on Saturday night was a monster, an abominable thing whose existence is certainly forbidden by any merciful God, and whose creation we had no right to embark upon. For the sake of forbidden carnal knowledge, we made forfeit our souls and arteries, and sacrificed what little culinary innocence we may have yet retained. And yet, I say to you, that I am unashamed, for Adit and I are men, and men are creatures of hubris. Without the will to do that which we can do, we are nought but pitiful apes. Defying the laws of man, god, and the primordial spirits behind time, we created “Overdressed to Kill.”

We started with third-pound Polish sausages, principally composed of pork and beef hearts. These were wrapped first in strips of bacon, precooked to brown the bacon a bit, then wrapped in slices of havarti and provolone cheeses.

The horror beginsAnd so on

These calorie bombs were then made more destructive by the addition of a coat of biscuit dough, infused with minced jalapeno. A topping of bread crumbs completed these terrifying creations before they were placed in the oven to bake.

Their raimentReady to be forged in the dread fires

But this part of the dish only constituted the “kill.” Where was our overdressed? Naturally, our dread sausages required some kind of topping. The best we could think of was a hash, made from chopped potatoes, onions, peppers, corn, and ground beef, seasoned with salt, paprika, black pepper, thyme, oregano, basil, and cinnamon, and cooked in the bacon grease remaining from the sausage precooking step. The hash was certainly capable of being a meal in itself, but it was only a part of a terrible, dark whole.

Hash of doom

The fully baked killing sausages were transferred to fresh plates, where they received a too-generous helping of the hash, followed by a wholly unnecessary topping of chopped green onions, and a handful of shredded mozerella – because we could.

Forgive us, O Lord, that we have turned from you...Thoroughly dressed

However, the coup de grace was not made. To finish the dish, to make it completely and utterly ridiculous, and generally inadvisable to consume, we needed one last topping – a sauce: thousand-island dressing.

Overdressed to Kill

Behold and despair, O mortals! Tremble and know that this thing has been, and is become an irrevocable thread of this reality. The present that is results from a past which contained such horror – know this! Your present carries with it the vestiges of abomination! The whole of reality is thus made tainted and impure, and not even God can undo what we have made manifest on His creation. And know also, that I am not sorry.

I have not decided why I present this information to you – whether I mean to spread the creation of this terror, or whether I mean to warn you against it. Aditya and I both managed to eat our way through one of these, and astoundingly, suffered no ill effects apart from sleepiness. The internal damage, and the damage to our immortal souls, of course, is likely less evident and longer lasting. Perhaps I do mean to warn – this is the ill that This is why you’re fat inspires. It is a gateway drug, perhaps, leading from fascination, to fantasy, and then, to this. If you choose to visit, hold fast your spirit against the temptation to make your wretched perversions of cuisine into dread reality. Remember that it is a site meant for amusement – it is not a cooking site, or a place for real recipes. I do not regret what Aditya and I did on Saturday, but I feel that I should. And that is my warning.





Observation

18 07 2009

I went to the grocery store earlier tonight to pick up a few things, most notably milk, which has been, of late, the primary indicator for when I need to go to the store. Bread? Meat? Fruit? I can manage for a few days without those. But milk – no no, I need milk. However, the store was mostly empty – it was rather late – and my mind was allowed to wander as I went about my shopping. In line at the checkout, then, for no particular reason, my mind wandered to the man standing in line in front of me. Here I became fascinated, not by the man himself, but by what I could tell about him by simple observation of his appearance, mannerisms, and shopping cart. I was fascinated most of all by the realization that without intending to, I had begun systematically deducing all the information I could about this man, piecing together as complete a picture of his life as possible for no discernible reason at all. Realizing this, I let it continue, and tried to determine how much I could learn in the couple minutes afforded by ringing up his items.

The man in front of me at the grocery store was an upper-middle class caucasian male, married and a home-owner. He was in his early sixties, but was in fairly good shape for his age, probably able to pass for younger if he had wanted to. He gets regular exercise in the form of short jogs before work every day, and is thereby able to maintain a slim build and a straight posture. He doesn’t color his hair, because the spattering of gray gives him a respectable, distinguished look, important to his job. He is a surgeon at one of the hospitals in the medical center, where he was worked for at least a few years, though likely much longer.

His wife, a few years his junior, is of a heavier build, but is actively trying to lose weight. She usually does the grocery shopping, but was not present tonight, for reasons I am not able to deduce. She does the grocery shopping normally in many frequent, small trips instead of large infrequent ones. She is more conscious about dietary concerns than her husband, but less concerned about the environment than he is. They both lean left, politically. They own two dogs, both of which are medium sized.

At this point in my observation of this man, however, another lane opened up, and I was summoned to ring up there. I certainly could have determined more information about that man with another thirty seconds or so of observation. Truly, the contents of his cart were rich with clues – his cart was a clue vein, ready for mining and processing, and when I was brought away, only half of it had been completely revealed.

I don’t know why I tried so hard to quickly ascertain the details of this man’s life. It’s a strange and ultimately irrelevant sort of voyuerism I’m not accustomed to, or at least not accustomed to being aware of. But the compulsion itself is what’s most fascinating – unconsciously, some part of my mind had decided that observing and analyzing the man in front of me was of profound importance. I’m rather hoping I’ll always be wrong about that.





The Right Choice

14 07 2009

After completing the herculean tome that constituted my account of traveling in Europe, I intended to take a short respite from writing here. The effort had, quite simply, fatigued me of words. I think it was less a matter of the volume which was written, however, than it was a matter of that immense passage covering only that single series of events. I was, as a matter of fact, tired of writing about Europe. It’s good that I finished when I did, or I may not have finished at all. In any case, that short respite has become rather longer than short, and it’s time again for me to return to the pen. Or…well, nobody writes with pens anymore, do they? And I’m certainly not writing with one now. But you know what I mean – metaphor and all that.

Of course, another thing preventing me from writing again, at least immediately after my last post, was that I had nothing to write about. As at the start of my summer, I had nothing to do, and spent most of the time alone in my apartment, idling away the hours with movies, video games, and Wikipedia. This kind of living always appeals to me when I’m busily working on some immense project, as I was near the end of my degree. However, actually experiencing this lifestyle is something quite different, and I can only stand it for a week or so before it becomes grating. I’m quite certain that it would be more bearable if Keith, my trusty roommate, were living here now instead of working an internship in San Diego. Even so, it’s as much the lack of productivity and time sense that destroys the illusion of freedom as it is the isolation. The latter especially has effects on one’s sanity that are – peculiar. With no schedule to abide by, no responsibilities, no social engagements, and for the most part, no solar cues, as I remain indoors most of the time, getting a true sense of time is difficult. It’s easy to wake up after noon on a Wednesday and truly believe that it is Thursday morning. Learning the reality is jarring, to say the least.

Ah, but salvation! Last week I began my laboratory observations at Rice. Around the time of graduation, when it was all full and set that I would re-enter Rice in August as a doctoral student (whoa, got a bit of a tingle writing that out – weird), I started to talk to a few professors about advising. Perhaps I should first explain, for those who aren’t familiar with how a PhD works, that students get a faculty advisor, one of the department professors, who acts as a mentor through their research. The student becomes a member of the professor’s lab group, who have a series of projects ongoing, usually themed around some common set of principles or design goals, and uses the lab’s resources to conduct the necessary research for their PhD thesis. In some sense, the professor is the “boss,” and the students (and post-docs) are the workers at the lab. Though it’s often talked about that way, that’s not really how it works – the students are as much responsible for the direction of research as the advisor, and frequently design whole new projects to work on. It’s all about collaboration.

In any case, choosing a PhD advisor is a fairly important task for any new graduate student, as it not only determines who, specifically, one’s advisor is, but also which lab one works in and with whom one collaborates in the lab. As I said, these lab groups are themed, as well, so the general topic of one’s thesis project is also partly dictated by choice of advisor. So around the time of graduation, I talked to a few choice professors whose research I was partly familiar with and interested in about possibly taking me as a student the next year. Now, the decision for advisor does not at all need to be made this early – I won’t need to actually submit a request until November, and of course, most of the incoming grads haven’t even met the professors apart from a short visit in spring, and won’t get to meet them again until August. In that regard, I have considerable advantage over the other incoming grad students – I know all the professors in the department, a few on first-name basis, and know their personality quirks and reputations. Furthermore, since I live in Houston throughout this summer, I have access to these professors at any time. I decided about the time of graduation, then, to leverage these advantages.

I proposed to those few professors to come to their respective laboratories for a week some time during the summer in order to observe and shadow the lab group. All three I spoke to about this, Dr. Lisa Biswal, Dr. Laura Segatori, and Dr. Ramon Gonzalez, were amenable to the idea, and I was able to arrange for dates in July to come in to each lab and just – watch. Well, more than that – my plan was as much about meeting the lab group and getting a feel for the culture and social dynamic of the lab as it was about seeing the nature of the research being done. I already know that these three professors are fun, friendly people, but their lab groups were somewhat mysterious entities, and I had to see them to ensure that I was not going to doom myself to brutal laboratory politics by joining with any of them. I was especially concerned about this, because I have experienced some rather unpleasant social dynamics while working in a lab – I will not say whose lab it was, but I will certainly say that it was not Dr. San’s laboratory, where I worked two years under very pleasant conditions alongside people I now count as friends. The social dynamic there could most accurately be characterized as chill.

Last week I spent with the lab group under Lisa Biswal, whose focus of research is a combination of microfluidics, thin films phenomena, and magnetorheology with microparticles. Most of this is probably Greek to a lot of people who might be reading, and actually, in more detail, it starts to become Greek to me as well. These are not my fields, but they are certainly interesting, and I wanted to take a look at something not biochemistry related for a change, just in case. Most of the time, following people around and talking to them about the particular experiments they were carrying out, I could understand at least what they were trying to accomplish, and with a bit of whiteboard explanation, I could usually grasp the fundamental concepts involved as well. My degree is worth something, after all, and this is all still chemical engineering, apparently.

A graduate student named Kai-Wei started out my week by showing me her work studying the internal mechanical stresses of lipid bilayers (the same stuff that cell membranes are made out of). She is able to get these lipid bilayers, literally two molecules thick, to form spontaneously on the surface of these exquisite structures called microcantilevers. A microcantilever is really nothing more than a tiny rectangular protrusion of silicon, carved out of a silicon wafer by lithography the same way microchips are made – the ones she uses are one micron thick, a few hundred microns long, and coated with just a few nanometers of gold on one side. Reflecting a laser off the gold surface allows one to measure tiny deflections of the cantilever – if it bends by even just a nanometer, the change in the laser’s angle of reflection is detected. Apparently, the crowding of lipid molecules on the surface of the cantilever causes the entire thing to buckle and bend as the molecules both grap onto the cantilever surface and repel one another. The deflection of the cantilever is thus measured, and the internal stress in the lipid bilayer may be inferred because we know the mechanical properties of silicon. The experiment can be repeated for different types of lipids and for lipid bilayers with embedded proteins as well, helping to better understand the mechanics of cell membranes.

The work being done there on microfluidics is also pretty fascinating. Liquids do not behave as one might expect on very small scales – viscous drag and surface tension become the relevant forces at work, giving rise to some behavior that seems counter-intuitive at first glance. For instance, I saw a number of microfluidic devices they had operating that consisted of three channels, about fifty microns wide, meeting and combining to form a single channel one hundred fifty microns wide. When three different fluids are passed through these channels, say clear water in the two outer channels and dyed water through the central one, the liquids do not mix upon meeting. Rather, distinct interfaces between the fluid streams exist and prevent mixing, even though the liquids are definitely miscible. This phenomenon can be taken advantage of – by passing two different chemicals through the channels that form a gel polymer upon meeting, it’s possible to create tiny polymer walls at the interfaces where the liquids meet. If they mixed, the larger exit channel would just gum up with polymer gel – because they don’t mix, only the interfaces polymerize, and walls may form.

Sometimes, though, you want the liquids to mix in a microfluid system. This is one reason the lab does work with magnetic beads. These are tiny spherical beads, just a few microns wide, which contain some sort of magnetic material, usually iron oxide, which grants them a magnetic dipole. In the presence of a magnetic field, these beads can be induced to join up into tiny chains, with the dipoles linging up along the direction of the field. If the field oscillates or rotates, interesting movement can be obtained from the beads, while retaining their chain structures. If these bead chains are created in a microfluid channel and induced to rotate, they can be used to mix fluids. A few of the other folks working there, like one grad student named Dichuan, showed me how they are trying to link these chains together permanently using complementary DNA coatings, and how he’s trying to model the mechanical properties of these links by observing the generated chains under the influence of Brownian motion. Yet another student there, Julie, showed me how she’s been trying to synthesize the magnetic beads for these types of experiments by suspending magnetic nanoparticles in an fine emulsion which undergoes polymerization to form tiny plastic beads. So far they’ve been buying the beads from companies, but they can’t tune the properties of the beads the way they want if they buy them – homemade beads could be made to any specifications.

A grad by the name of Kungpo showed me their Langmuir trough apparatus, which is a device able to measure the pressure present in a surface monolayer on top of water (or any liquid, I suppose). It’s difficult to explain how the machine works without pictures, or without actually seeing the device. A trough full of water is dispsersed on its surface with some substance to be studied – in this case, it was cadmium selenide nanoparticles provided by another laboratory on campus run by Dr. Michael Wong. Two barriers, just skimming the surface of the water, can be used to compress the surface layer of the trough, reducing the average surface area available to each particle in the layer, and another part of the device measures the surface pressure. In this way – and this is really cool…if you’re me – he can produce a 2D phase diagram of the nanoparticles by showing the relation between their area and pressure. This 2D surface coating, upon compression, exhibits behavior analagous to a gas, liquid, and solid phase at different pressures. Upon re-expansion, if the conditions are right, interesting net structures are formed by agglomerations of the particles, and this has been likened to cracking of the solid phase – however, nobody’s sure yet exactly why they do this. But everyone seems to agree that’s it’s really cool.

Last week was a treat. I was very glad to have a reason to leave the apartment every day, and it also imposed a schedule and responsibility on me, even if the schedule was little more than “get there around 10ish” and the responsibility was “watch them work.” I learned, however, and learning makes me feel productive. I got to meet the folks in Biswal’s lab group, and I was pleased to make the acquaintance of everyone there – they seem like fine people, with a laid back atmosphere that I could really fit into.

But what really caught me early was nostalgia – I was just glad to be in a lab again. It’s been a year since I quit working for Dr. San’s group in bioengineering, and I think I’ve forgotten how much I missed just being in a laboratory, being around people that live research. It was refreshing to see people dedicated to their work the way researchers are – Kungpo was sheepish about explaining his experiments to me, apologizing to me that his work wasn’t more interesting. But he was interested, I know – it takes dedication to sit in front of a water trough watching while two teflon barriers skim its surface at 2 millimeters per minute. That’s passion – I say this completely free of irony. I used to feel that way when I had to calibrate a manual control peristaltic pump for a bioreactor experiment, watching intently as liquid slowly dripped into a graduated cylinder while I timed it, over and over again, for hours. Only passion kept me there, a sort of determined, solemn joy, and I gladly calibrated that pump before every experiment. Despite his apologies to me (unnecessary, because I did find his experiment interesting), Kungpo was there because a desire drove him to be.

It was hard last week, actually, not being able to jump into their projects and start working alongside – I was the observer only. I remembered how I love research, though, and something was rekindled, I think. Even though I’m not back in the lab yet, I feel a bit of the passion again. Just seeing it. As I sat watching those experiments, experiments for the most part outside my field of expertise and in which I had no personal stake, I found myself intensely wanting my companion’s theory to be validated by the results of the experiment unfolding before me. Just watching the data crawl across the screen, one point on a graph at a time, was thrilling. Seeing all this and feeling all this again is making me feel good about grad school – if it stays like this, if the passion remains, then I made the right choice. I need to be in a lab, and I will be. Research should be my place, and it is. Fantastic.

My last year of school, without the moderating presence of the lab in my life, made me lose some of my enthusiasm for this, due to forgetfulness if nothing else. Not all of it, mind you – I still remembered enough to miss the lab occasionally, and apply to grad school. But it’s all back now. Of course, now I have to deal with the anticipation – I have to get back in a lab soon. For the time being, I still have Segatori’s group and Gonzalez’ group over the next two weeks. I hope these will prove to be as exciting. I have little reason to believe they won’t.





Crisis at Fiumicino!

1 07 2009

About the time we arrived in Rome, Beth began to experience some sinus congestion and a bit of coughing. We naively assumed that she was exhibiting the symptoms of an allergy to some new plant growing the vicinity of Rome, as she allergies of this sort are not unknown to her. However, this was obviously wishful thinking, for she was certainly suffering from some minor headcold. I say certainly because by the morning of my last day, when I was to board my plane back to the States, I too was suffering from these symptoms. Believing, or at least hoping, that Beth only had allergies to something in Rome, or perhaps brought on by the fairly poor air of the congested city, we had been sharing water bottles for our entire visit. Of course, it probably would have made no difference – being in such close proximity to Beth for so long every day, I doubt it would have been possible for me to effectively avoid infection. In any case, I woke up on my travel day to find myself, without doubt, suffering from the early signs of a cold.

I was mildly upset about this. I’ve never had to travel before with sickness, but obviously it presented itself in my mind as a rather unpleasant experience. Nevertheless, I was by this time somewhat anxious to return home, so reserved my grudges, shrugging it off as mere inconvenience.

We would not be going home together, Beth and I, for she had to catch a train to Spain in order to meet her sister for more travels there. All told, her trip in Europe would run more than a month, while my own had just been ten days. I was to catch a plane from Rome’s airport, actually in the satellite city of Fiumicino, to get a connection in Newark back to Houston. Both my plane and her train left at about the same time in the early afternoon, so we decided to spend the morning together, as it would be our last opportunity until she returned to Houston in another ten (eleven?) days. We headed off into Rome on foot to find a cafe for a quick breakfast and perhaps a cappuccino. This was my first mistake.

We did indeed find a cafe, and had a very nice and peaceful breakfast, my cappuccino of typical Italian excellence, and were able to discuss the finances of the trip before we parted ways. Beth, of course, owed me a lot of money, since I had been almost solely responsible for expenses since we started together, as I’ve explained earlier. I also lent her some cash so that she would have something between our parting and her meeting with her sister in Spain – Beth would have about a day before she arrived, and presumably needed to eat and sleep in the interim.

However, this cafe, as it happened, was not especially near to our hostel, and the walk to and from our breakfast spot consumed a considerable amount of time. I was planning on getting to the Roma Termini train station, just a 10-15 minute walk from our hostel and catch a Leonardo Express line to Fiumicino, which is the standard express train everyone apparently takes to get to the airport. I had hoped to leave the train station at about eleven, but we only found ourselves at the hostel by this time. Beginning to worry a bit, I rushed, with Beth helping me carry my bags, to the train station to get on the Leonardo Express, a bit later than planned.

One might suppose that the central train station of the largest city in the country would have its express train to the airport well labeled and easily accessible, with tons of huge signs pointing conveniently in the proper direction, and informing travelers of the platform number and so on. One who thinks this has not been to Italy. The Roma Termini train station was a frustratingly confusing place to try to find my express train, with fairly few signs bearing what I thought was somewhat ambiguous labeling. Furthermore, the particular spot to catch the Leonardo Express, the main express train to the airport (a fact I cannot stress enough) was not especially easy to access, being way in the back of the station – we walked almost as long through the train station as we did getting to the station to find this platform. Finally, though, we found it and I got a ticket, at which point Beth and I said our farewells and she went back to the hostel to get her own baggage to bring on her train.

At this time, it was shortly before noon, and my plane, rather worryingly, was set to leave at 2 pm. I wasn’t too worried, however, as a train was scheduled to leave from that platform very soon, and the transit time for this line was just under thirty minutes. I would arrive with little time to spare, but enough to get to my gate comfortably. And here was my second mistake, for I was, of course, in Italy, and in Italy, trains don’t run on a schedule so much as they – well, they move, anyway. Eventually. Most of the time.

I ended up standing on the train platform for over twenty minutes, waiting for a very late train. As soon as it came, now beginning to get really worried about my flight, I leapt onto the train and sat down right away. Of course, it didn’t matter how quickly I actually boarded the train – it would move of its own accord, whenever it saw fit. In most other countries, when a train arrives at the station this late, the people operating the train will attempt to make up some of the time by rushing the stop on the platform and really pushing up the speed during the trip. It is, after all, supposed to be an express train. This is what they would do in Britain or France, for instance. In Japan, they would do this, and the company’s CEO would resign after publicly apologizing while hanging his head in shame. In Germany, of course, the train simply would not be late – ever.

However, we were in Italy, so for over ten minutes, the train sat motionless at the platform, the time passing by with agonizing slowness while I continually checked and rechecked my watch. Finally, the train began to move from the station, and for a few minutes, rode down the track as a train traditionally is supposed to do. However, customs being different in this foreign land, the train – the only express train to the airport, mind you – stopped for no apparent reason whatsoever about five or ten minutes out from the station. I peered out the window and looked down both ends of the stationery train, and saw no reason for our stop – we were certainly not at a station platform, only a track. For another ten minutes, we sat motionless for a reason I have not learned to this day. Again, express train, everyone. Express.

When the train began to move again, it did so with incredible slowness – I was not aware trains were capable of movement so minute. I would have thought – no, did think! – that motion this slow would undoubtedly be stopped by static friction. Our speed was so slow that it took me a moment just to realize it had begun – and since our stop, I had had my eyes fixed outside, watching intently for motion! Eventually, our speed picked up to something approaching walking speed, and I could safely say for sure that we were on our way, albeit with frustrating slowness. A few minutes later and we were on our way again at a rate which I could reasonably characterize as train-like. Not express train-like, mind you, but what you might expect from a regular commuter.

We arrived finally at the Fiumicino Airport, at which point a voice came over the PA and politely said something to the effect of “This train has arrived late. Sorry about that.” I didn’t pay too much attention, because it was now dangerously close to my flight time. A trip that should have taken me just under half an hour had now run me a total of seventy minutes, and I jumped off the train and began running through the train station, awkwardly hobbling with my heavy backpack, frantically reading every sign I came across for directions to Continental Airlines check-in. With astounding quickness, I found my way to the front of the terminal and discovered that check-in was in a different building, and that I would need to get on a shuttle. The shuttle, unlike the train, was on time, and took me to the auxiliary terminal where Continental was housed. Express train to the airport: seventy minutes. Running through an unfamiliar airport with heavy bags and taking a shuttle to a different building: five minutes.

Express.

This other building was a rather small auxiliary terminal, obviously only constructed a few years ago for just a few airlines that only run a few flights a day – most intercontinental carriers like Continental, Delta, and El Al (an Israeli airline). The entrance just leads into one large room, perhaps fifteen by twenty-five meters, stark cement and painted metal, with check-in counters along one side, and information desks along the other, one counter and one desk for each airline. When I got there at five minutes after one, however, this large room was empty. Not a soul stood in that place, and I turned around in circles in the middle for a minute, trying to figure out what I needed to do to check in to this flight. There was the Continental counter, clearly marked, and across the way, the Continental information desk – and both were unmanned, as were all the other counters and desks. Behind the check-in counters, there was an automatic glass door, and through it I could see another large room where there might be people to help me, but a sign overhead informed me that I didn’t have access that way. Panicking, though, and seeing no other option, I was considering going through anyway.

At this time, a pair of stony-faced Italian police officers came in through another doorway, and saw that I was agitated and eying the glass door anxiously. In a monotone that can only described as indifferent, one of them asked me, in flawless English, if I need help looking for something. Coughing a bit from having run across an airport with a sore throat, I asked him where I could go to check in for a Continental airlines flight, since it was clear that this room was not the place. Very calmly and with the same indifference, he shook his head and said that check-in ended one hour before the flight time – just five minutes ago. There was a short pause as I waited for him to continue with information about what I could do to rush myself on the plane, or at least find people from Continental who I could talk to to get me sorted out. After all, being only five minutes late for check-in meant that the plane was still here, still being loaded, and, in fact, would not even begin boarding for another twenty minutes or so. There was hope yet – this problem could be sorted out.

There was no such information forthcoming, however. He just looked at me, bored, and volunteered no additional information. So I asked him all that – where were the Continental check-in people now, and where were the Continental information desk folks? Where did I need to go now to get myself checked in since the official counter was closed? Could he, being a police officer, call someone for me or summon somebody from beyond the mysterious staff-only glass door to help me out? There were other staff-only doors – surely behind them dwelt staff. But he shook his head again, and said simply that everyone was gone. After all, he repeated, check-in had closed five minutes ago. So they were gone.

Gone?

Gone, he confirmed. And when I asked about other people to talk to or places to go to check in expediently, he just shrugged, and with the same indifference said there was nothing like that. Check-in, he repeated, had closed. If not for his obviously fluent English, I would have believed that he didn’t quite understand what I was trying to ask him for, but I’m sure he did. He meant it – no, nobody would help me. There was a plane on the ground that I had time enough to get to, but the people to check me in had literally gone – there were on their way home already – and nobody else would do anything to get me on the plane. The police officer’s utter lack of concern was becoming infuriating.

So before the plane had even boarded its first passenger, I had already missed my flight.

The officer pointed behind me to the Continental information desk, and pointed out a sign on the desk I had not noticed before. It was a single standard size sheet of white paper clipped in holder that held it upright, and was set on the side of the desk, partially obscured by a decorative panel. It was mostly blank, but for some text, about font size 14, in the middle which informed anyone keen enough to notice it that should the information desk be unmanned, inquiries should go to the following phone number. The officer astutely suggested that I should call them. Realizing that these police were going to be completely useless to me otherwise, I turned to read the number and prepared to dial. As I set my bags down and got my phone out, I turned and noted that the police, without saying anything, had already started walking towards the exit of the building.

The representative I reached on the phone was almost as bored and indifferent to my situation as the police had been. He also repeated that check-in was closed, and nothing could (would) be done about it. He suggested right away that I arrange for an alternate flight the next day. I pleaded with him for a couple minutes more to try to call somebody at the airport to see if there was anything to be done – the plane was still here, there was more then enough time to get me and my bags on the plane, if only there was somebody to come help me. He sat in front of a Continental switchboard, the whole of the European division at his fingertips – would he try, at least, to call someone? No, check-in closed, and that was that. He refused to make such calls, and suggested again that I arrange for a new flight.

At last, I resigned to it – for indifference, I would miss my plane. He told me there was a flight at about ten the next morning, with the same path – a short changeover in Newark where I would pass through customs, and then to Houston on two legs. The change of flight, however, would cost me about three hundred dollars, making the Leonardo Express the most expensive train I’ve ridden on. By now, however, I was fairly despondent, and hardly heard any of that – indifference is contagious, and, I imagine, so was my cold. Feeling miserable in every sense of the word, I gave him my credit card information and took down the information for the new flights. I thanked him, hung up, and was alone. There was still not a soul in that room.

But I had to spend about twenty hours in the Rome airport now, and at first, intended to do it in that room. I was determined not to miss another flight, and thought the best way to pass the time would be to sleep – I was beginning to really feel my cold, after all. I found a chair against one of the walls, and set myself up in a seat with a clear view of both the check-in counter and information desk. For a couple hours, I dropped in and out of consciousness in the chair, watching as occasionally a solitary staff worker would come through and mop the floor or something equally useless. At one point, an American came into the room, and seemed as confused as I had been at the utter desolation of that place. He tried to speak to me in broken Italian about American Airlines before I informed him that I, too, was American, and that if he needed any help with anything, this accursed place was not where he should be. Whatever his problem was, I explained, he needed someone who cared, and there was not a soul here who did. I think I rather unsettled him with that, and he stumbled from the building in a confused daze.

At around five in the evening, they closed the restroom. I don’t know why, but a staff worker came by, closed the restroom entrances, and then left the building. Unbelieving, I scuttled across the room and checked the doors – locked. Why had they done this? Tired of the isolation anyway, I resolved a new plan – I would go back to the main terminal, where they had both restrooms and food, and wait it out there, but to avoid missing my flight, I would not sleep. For my cold, this would be terrible, but I justified it by doing the time-difference math and figuring that it would put me on a reasonable schedule for Houston to stay up that night. With oddly impeccable timing, the shuttle came by to pick me up (What for? Nobody else was coming from this building – why was the shuttle even still running?) and I left that cesspool of woe and apathy behind.

So I spent the next sixteen hours or so sitting in a chair in the Fiumicino Airport main terminal, with my bags gathered about me, thoroughly miserable. Due to airport regulations that prohibit leaving unattended baggage, whenever I ran out of tissues to blow my nose, which was fairly frequent, I had to first gather up all my belongings, hoisting my heavy backpack and wheeling my bag behind me. I read two novels in that time, and struggled to stay awake with another cappuccino that cost me significantly more than the one I had that morning (however, it too was startlingly excellent). Eventually, I also caved in and bought myself a sandwich, despite my initial resolve to wait until boarding the plane. I watched people, and they watched me. We were all very bored, all very unhappy to wait overnight in that terminal.

After arranging my new flight, I had called Alec, who would give me a ride home from the airport, to inform him of my new arrival time. At about ten that night, however, I realized that I had called him at about 6 am Houston time, had woken him up, and he might not have all “been there” when I told him the bad news. I called him back then to confirm, to discover that Alec was not sure if the call at 6 am had even been real – he was afraid it had been a dream!

The morning came, and with an exhaustion that was partly my lack of sleep, and partly my well-aged cold, I dragged myself back to the hall of desolation to check in to my flight. With a bit of difficulty, I managed to get myself and my bag checked in, and discovered that this building was only for check-in, and that the gate for my flight was back at the main terminal building. So for the fourth time I boarded the shuttle and found my gate. Shortly before boarding the flight, I became thirsty and felt a mighty soreness in my throat. In my pocket were €2.56, and searching all about, I found to my dismay that this was not enough money to buy a drink anywhere – the cheapest was €2.70. I was quite thoroughly ready to leave the country at this point.

And so I did. A fairly uneventful pair of flights ensued, with a delay in Newark due to thunderstorms to the west. As we do in countries which are not Italy, much of that delay was made up when the pilot jacked up the throttle, and what might have been a delay of well over an hour turned into less than thirty minutes when we arrived in Houston. I felt very satisfied by that, and was glad to be home.

One last thing, a positive note – for reasons beyond my understanding, the three hundred dollars to pay for my changed flight have never been charged to me. They have showed up in no statements, I have received no bills. I’m not sure if this is an oversight, or if Travelocity provides some kind of guarantee or insurance on flights I’m not completely aware of. In any case, missing my flight didn’t actually end up costing me anything.

And that’s it. This more or less concludes my account of my trip through France and Italy, and I’m sorry it took me so long to get it all out. I’ve now written over 32,000 words, or about 43 pages of solid text, which is significantly more than I expected to be able to squeeze out of this. I had intended to write this during my trip, of course – my first post regarding the trip was made on the first day, as you might remember if your memories still reach that far into the mists of the distant past. It’s clear now that this would have been impossible – the time was not there, or I would have been forced to write much briefer, shallower posts. It occurs to me that some might actually prefer that – as always, I apologize for excess verbosity. Now I can get back to writing about the inconsequential vagaries of my everyday life and reviews of stupid movies nobody’s talked about for thirty years.





The Old Stuff

28 06 2009

(I apologize mightily for the delay of this post.)

Our last full day in Rome, Beth and I planned to visit the large complex of ancient Roman structures near the Colosseum which includes Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum. Having spent a good part of the last week looking at Christian things, like churches and paintings of Jesus, it was looking to be a nice change to see something thoroughly pagan. Like the Vatican, there are enough of these old ancient ruins to occupy an entire day, and we intended to make use of it.

Approaching from the north, we passed by a more modern structure which butts against the Roman Forum, the monument to Vittorio Emanuele II. This building is notable because it’s visible from almost everywhere in Rome – its gargantuan, and it’s supposedly nothing more than a monument to the first king of Italy and to the reunification of the Italian kingdom. Completed in 1935, just eleven years before Italy kicked out its monarchy, the monument stands 70 meters high, and features a bronze equestrian statue of the first king (whose remains I mentioned interred at the Pantheon) that weighs something like 50 tons. The monument consists of an enormous stairway which rises to a platform where two soldier stand day and night guarding the tomb of an Unknown Soldier (circa WWI). Two more stairways sweep around from either side of this platform, skirting around the edges of the pedestal which carries King Emanuele’s enormous bronze visage. They rise to a sort of porch, almost a hundred meters wide, with 15 meter-high columns lining the front. On either side there are rectangular projections, also presenting enormous Corinthian columns to the observer. As expected, cornices and columns and the pedestal are all ornamented with carvings, and are all composed of brilliant white marble. The projections from either side of the high porch are topped with bronze statues of winged women riding four-horse chariots. A number of other sculpted humanoid figures adorn anywhere there is a flat surface to put a statue on. The structure is enormous, its impressive, and its almost obscenely majestic.

I can’t help but think that something like this would never fly in the United States – we make monuments to our nation’s greats, and they get statues of themselves sitting in giant stone chairs, statues of themselves standing under domes, or giant unadorned obelisks. I wouldn’t call our monuments majestic – elegant perhaps, which the monument to Vittorio Emanuele II is not, but not majestic. Somehow I think it’s gotten worked into the American tradition that respect is borne through with simplicity and quiet – the gold and sculpted colonnades, the exaggerated scale, the rising choirs, all of that is too European, too pompous. Perhaps it has something to do with George Washington, who set so many precedents during his time as our first President – during his lifetime, he would allow no statue to be made of him that was larger than he actually was, feeling that the only effect of making larger-than-life statues was to belittle the observer. Perhaps we feel the large ornate monuments are vulgar for this reason – we don’t want to elevate the honored above the status of citizen. Of course, then this happened.

Across the street from the monument to Emanuele is Trajan’s Forum, a large rectangular pit dug down below street level containing many fractured columns and other bits of marble facade, once adorning a complex of buildings constructed some nineteen centuries ago. The forum is in ruins now – only these fragments remain, as well as some of the brickwork of the outer walls and floor. To the north end of the forum, however, stands Trajan’s column, an enormous marble column standing some 38 meters high, including an 8 meter pedestal. The columns is adorned with a helical bas relief running from the bottom to the top of the column, showing details of Trajan’s military victory in Dacia at the start of the second century. Also across the Forum is visible a series of structures named Trajan’s Market, a semicircular arrangement which is actually a combination of medieval structures assembled atop ancient Roman buildings. The bottommost floors, which project furthest into the forum and form the semicircle with series of arches, date to about the same time as the forum and column, the first quarter of the second century, while upper floors include these medieval expansions. The complex was once used as a marketplace on the forum floor, with upper floors also acting as offices and administration.

Across the street and behind the king’s enormous monument is the entrance to the Roman Forum. The Roman forum was once the central square of the ancient city, and was the meeting place for both government and worship. The remains of a number of old temples stand here, as well as an old meeting place for the Senate and the old city treasury, which would have also been the treasury for the entire Empire. The forum complex has a number of tour groups running through it all times, and many of them are in English. While it costs money to join these tour groups, it costs nothing at all to surreptitiously eavesdrop on them while they stop in front of the same structure you do. Beth and I chose this second option, and ended up with a fairly good free tour of the area, supplemented by the numerous placards and signs erected giving background information about all the various objects present there.

We entered near the north of the forum, and descended a ramp to the former ground level of the city. All of these ancient ruins are set well below the present road level, and have had to be excavated in order to be studied and displayed to the public. Over the centuries, Rome (and many other cities, for that matter) have burned or been sacked numerous times. Whenever that happened, if the old structures were not deemed salvagable or important enough, the ashes and debris from the old city was simply trampled down and a new set of buildings was laid down over them. The result was that the ground level of these cities rose many meters over the years, so that now the entire Roman Forum, the city center of Rome, now lies inside a vast open pit.

Much of that pit is incomprehensible to me. There piles of marble and travertine fragments, clearly once the corners of buildings, segments of columns, or pieces of inscriptions. Now they bear no place, and sit in grass, growing around them. Many of the old buildings have been torn down completely, leaving only the brick bases of walls or foundations. At times part of a facade is visible in marble, and may bear a bit of carved ornamentation or a few fragments of Roman script (amazingly still recognizable Latin, partly comprehensible by somebody familiar with the Romantic roots of English). The buildings in this section of the forum appear tightly grouped, and without knowing how they were designed otherwise or what they were, it looks as though this would have been a crammed and awkward part of town. Random collections of a few stairs lead down into rectangular depressions or up onto raised foundations. A single narrow pillar stands beside a brick wall. It’s all actually quite frustrating because I’m sure it would be very orderly and sensible if only I could see these structures complete, but the bricks and stone of these buildings are now missing, probably taken away by subsequent builders in search of material.

Deeper in the forum there are more complete structures, or at least structures with some clear explanation, even if very little of the original construction remains. There are several temples, for instance, and in some cases only the high foundation and a few pillars remain. The foundations should be explained – the ancient Romans built temples as column supported structures set upon very high foundations or platforms. Usually the front of the building was marked by a single steep staircase running to the top of the platform, and under certain traditions this staircase might have only been traversed by the priests. From the ruins, it’s apparent that many of these platforms also contained basement levels, and walls and sides have fallen away, revealing internal chambers and archways.

The temple of Saturn is among the most prominent still standing, as the base is quite large and a full row of columns still stands. This temple, dedicated to the agricultural god Saturn, was constructed about 2500 years ago, and is one of the oldest structures in the forum. For some times this temple, in addition to being an important site of worship, also housed the Republic’s treasury and state archives. Shortly after the start of the Empire, the treasury was moved to a different location, and a new building, the Tabularium, was constructed next to the Temple of Saturn to act as a new archives. The Temple remained standing as a religious building for centuries, but has succumbed to the ages, and now very little remains, though the general shape and size of the building are inferable from the remaining portico columns, pediment, and foundation. Some of the lower floors of the Tabularium still stand – indeed, they must, for the present-day Roman city hall, constructed during the middle ages, is built upon the ancient archives and incorporates it into its structural support.

Standing just before the Temple of Saturn is the Arch of Septimius Severus. The notion of a triumphal arch originates in Roman Imperial tradition, and there are a few of notable ones in or near the forum. When an emperor had victory in some particularly important or glorious battle somewhere, it was customary for somebody else to commemorate that victory with some kind of monument. Sometimes this was a column, as with Trajan’s column. Septimius Severus led battles against the Parthians at the end of the second century, and his sons commissioned the construction of this arch, which was somewhat self-serving as they too commanded in the field during those victories and also featured prominently on the arch. The structure is as one might expect a triumphal arch to appear – that is to say that the more famous arches in Paris are fairly true to the original Roman designs of a rectangular building with three archways, one large central one with a coffered ceiling, and two shorter, narrower archways to either side. The arch is made of travertine and marble, and carved ornately with depictions of Parthians being slaughtered by a godlike Septimius and his equally godlike sons. Inscriptions appear as well, commemorating the victories and informing anyone who can read Latin how glorious Septimius was.

Just beside the Arch of Septimius Severus is the Curia Julia a large rectangular building made of brown bricks that is complete – four walls and a ceiling, as well as doors and windows (not original windows, I’m sure). Curias were specified meeting places for the Senate, and a number of them were built where the Curia Julia now stands, but this incarnation has been in place since the beginning of the fourth century. The Curia Julia is in remarkably good condition, largely because it was converted to a church in the seventh century and maintained in that capacity for many centuries. For its floor dimensions, the ceiling of the Curia Julia is very high, which may account for its choice as a church conversion. I was also astounded by how small the floor of this structure is – only about 25 by 16 meters, which hardly seems large enough to house an entire Senate body, though I can’t say how big the Senate actually was in ancient Rome. Much of that floor is covered in a very old mosaic dating to the building’s construction, composed of rosettes and other geometric patterns in a variety of colors. This contrasts with the rest of the building, which today appears rather starkly made of brick and concrete, though the facade of the building was adorned with both marble and – get this – concrete treated to look like marble. The Romans invented faux marble at least seventeen hundred years ago.

The notion of great leaders taking on godlike qualities didn’t always exist in Roman tradition. However, in the forum, we can see its beginning. Julius Caesar, often erroneously considered an emperor of Rome, but who was in fact only dictator as appointed by the Senate, was well-loved by the people of Rome. After his assassination by a discontented group of Senators in the Roman forum on March 15, 44 BC, a civil war broke out over the new power vacuum. Two years later, with many new faces in power and in the Senate, many of whom had been supporters of Caesar, Julius Caesar was deified by the Senate. This worked because of Julius Caesar’s popularity, and bought some favor from the people for many of the new leaders in the Senate and other Republic offices.

The same year he was deified, Caesar’s adopted son, future first emperor Augustus began the construction of a temple in the center of the Roman forum to honor the newly deified citizen. The Temple is built on the site of Caesar’s cremation a few days after his assassination, where Marcus Antonius gave a stirring eulogy to a mourning crowd of Roman citizens (though not the one Shakespeare wrote, of course). Today little remains of the temple, which is not built upon any sort of high platform, but is set on the street level where any citizen may enter and pay respect, and has walls made of brick, though marble certainly formed a facade at one time. The altar to Caesar is now little more than a pile of dust, but it is covered over with a ceiling to protect it from the elements, and still today, two millennia after his death, people place flowers on the altar in the Temple of Julius Caesar.

After Julius Caesar, it became common practice for great Roman leaders, especially emperors, to be posthumously deified and honored with temples. In a few cases, emperors demanded deification while they yet lived – this tended to make them unpopular with certain folks, for reasons that should probably be obvious.

It’s unclear to me how literally the deification of the emperors is supposed to be taken, and how serious people were about worshiping them in the same way they worshiped, say, Jupiter, Venus, or Diana. In some ways it feel like deification was simply a means of conferring honor on the respected dead, and worship a way to communicate with these great, and perhaps powerful souls in a similar fashion to the way saints are honored in modern Catholicism. A temple very near to the Temple of Caesar is the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, of which only the raised foundation, wide front stairway, and front portico columns remain (however, sometime between the seventh and eleventh centuries, the church of San Lorenzo in Miranda was constructed upon the old temple’s platform foundation, and stands behind the columns to this day). This temple was constructed in 141 AD by Emperor Antoninus Pius as a dedication to his recently deceased wife, who was deified by his order. This gesture doesn’t seem strictly religious to me, but feels more like the construction of a monument to the dead, with the deification, as I say, merely a means to bestow honor and respect beyond what would normally be possible. Antoninus’ successor, Marcus Aurelius rededicated the temple to Antoninus and his wife jointly after Antoninus’ death, and this also seems more of an honorific dedication than a gesture of genuine religious significance. Certainly some people did not seem to take it too seriously – on his death bed, Emperor Vespasian was heard to say rather jokingly, “I fear I am becoming a god.”

Separated from the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina by a couple of ruined buildings, with only wall bases remaining, is the remnant of the Temple of Vesta, just in front of the House of the Vestal Virgins. The Temple of Vesta differs markedly from most other Roman temples in its architecture. Rather than a colossal rectangular building with a columned portico, the Temple of Vesta was a circular structure some 15 meters across, with a series of columns around the perimeter. Inside this outer ring of columns there was a complete wall with an additional circle of embedded columns for structural support, and the building likely was capped by a concrete dome. Little remains of the temple today, with only the circular foundation, a section of wall, and a few of the outer marble pillars still standing, and those were all reconstructed from ruined fragments during the Mussolini regime.

Vesta was a goddess of the hearth and home, and featured prominently in every day Roman life despite her relative obscurity in the traditional mythologies. Much of her worship took place at home for most Romans, as each hearth fire was essentially able to function as an altar for her. She was honored at the temple with larger sacrifices than could be made practically at home, and a holy fire was kept burning in the temple day and night, as both an altarpiece and as a place to make burnt offerings. The temple fire also served as a community fire – anyone could use it to start a torch to take home. That fire necessitated the nearby House of Vestal Virgins.

The Temple of Vesta was among the only temples to boast a full-time clerical staff, composed entirely of women who were selected from the aristocracy to tend the flame and ensure that it never went out, and was renewed annually on March 1. Upon selection, these women swore an oath of celibacy for forty years (essentially their entire lives – people didn’t live very long) and lived together at the House, where they more or less took care of themselves and the flame. Though they were women, the Vestal virgins were nevertheless clergy, and commanded a significant amount of respect and privilege with their positions, including the ability to vote, own property and keep and oversee important documents like wills and treaties. Furthermore, the House was less of a house, and more of a three-floor palace with armed guards. All that remains of it now is the outline of the building’s walls, and some of the rooms of the first floor. The central hall of the House is also visible, now covered over with grass. It still has the rectangular depressions in it where the baths were, and some marble sculptures also survive around the perimeter of that room.

The largest building in the forum was the Basilica of Maxentius, an enormous barrel-vaulted structure with three aisles terminating at its northern end with an apse. The design was similar to that of more modern Christian basilicas, though without the transept that gives churches their typical cross floorplan. The Basilica of Maxentius, constructed during the early third century, was of course not a Christian church, and in fact, was not a religious building at all. With its enormous internal spaces, it was an excellent meeting hall for council meetings or court proceedings. It consisted of three vaults supported on huge columns, all set atop what looks to be a concrete foundation. The two front vaults have fallen away and of them essentially nothing remains. However, the apse at the back still remains, built of brick and concrete, with coffered arches to reduce the weight of the ceiling. The remaining section of the Basilica is large enough and in good enough condition that it’s still occasionally used for special events in modern times – wrestling events were held under the apse during the 1960 Olympic games, and when we were there, Beth and I saw what looked like an enormous projection screen set up in the central nave, with the foundation filled with neat rows of metal folding chairs – we don’t know what it was all about, but it was obviously going to be used for something very soon.

Near the Basilica of Maxentius and to the southwest of it in the Arch of Titus, a very attractive triumphal arch made of white marble. This arch was erected by Emperor Domitian in 81 AD after the death of his brother, Emperor Titus. The arch commemorates the sack of Jerusalem by Titus in 70, which essentially ended the ongoing revolt in Palestine. After a difficult siege of the city, Titus’ armies destroyed the Temple of Solomon and plundered the city’s riches, carrying them back to Rome as spoils. This is indicated clearly in marble bas reliefs on the inner walls of the Arch’s single archway, which show Roman soldiers carrying back huge chests and the Jewish candelabras. They also show Titus triumphant and godlike with his entourage.

From the Arch of Titus one may walk south, and pass up either a ramped road, or stairs up the side of a ruined building (whose purpose I cannot now remember) to reach Palatine Hill. Palatine Hill was historically the site of aristocratic homes, and archaeological evidence there suggests that there were settlements on the hill which even predate the traditional founding of Rome in the mid eighth century BC. Throughout the kingdom and Republic periods, aristocratic families built palaces here, for which the hill became known and named. During the Empire, the Imperial palaces and some administrative buildings occupied the hill, and its these ruins that are most prominent today.

Nearest to the forum on the hill, there is a garden area, rich with growth, and I’m not certain when it actually dates from – somebody’s obviously taking care of it now. From the garden, it’s possible to get a very good view of the entire forum as well as much of the surrounding city. Further south on the hill are the ruins of the Flavian Palace and the Domus Augustus, two Imperial palaces, constructed only a few decades apart that would form together a massive palace complex for future emperors. The Domus Augustus was constructed during the reign of the first emperor on the south side of the hill, and enormous brick retaining walls with large arches for support are visible built into the steep hillside. From atop those walls, one can get a great view to the south, where the Circus Maximus is visible, a large pit dug down and flattened with a rising platform in the middle, like a raised median. The Circus was used for chariot races, and was once lined all around with seating for thousands of spectators, as well as stables and other support structures. The raised platform in the middle was adorned with columns and (of course) obelisks.

A significant amount of the Domus Augustus survive today, with much of the outer walls still intact and several interior rooms well defines. The main hall is quite evident, though most of the columns that stood there are gone and leave only their bases. The floor has also been completely overtaken by grass. However, a lot can be learned from what remains – specifically that even an emperor’s palace was built mostly of brick and concrete. Marble once adorned much of these structures however, and that was harvested centuries later for the construction of churches elsewhere in Rome. Just north of the Domus Augustus are the remains, very stark, of a Temple to Apollo which Augustus had constructed next to his home for personal worship of who was, I can only guess, his favorite god. While much remains of the Domus Augustus, it used to have at least one more floor, and was rather lavishly ornamented. Today only the brown brick remains.

Much less remains of the Flavian Palace, built next to the Domus Augustus and connected to it. Reports are that at the time of its construction under Domitian, the Flavian Palace was extravagant to the point of being ludicrous. Domitian himself was a rather antisocial person, and considered something of a tyrant by the Senate and other aristocracy (though actually fairly well liked by the common people). He ordered his palace to be the most enormous and lavish palace yet built, and also reportedly told his architects that one thing he did not want to see in his palace was people. His architects designed the palace with multiple trapdoors and tunnels to allow servants to come and go without ever being seen by the emperor. All the walls of the palace were covered with a rather novel marble veneer, which was made in segments and attached with metal hooks, some of which are still visible where the walls still stand. The marble, like that on others of these ancient buildings, was scavenged long ago for the construction of Christian churches. Much of the marble from the Flavian palace apparently now resides in St. Peter’s Basilica. It’s unfortunate to see only the low remains of the bottommost walls, defining some of the outlines of the large palatial compound and some of the rooms, and think that until fairly recently, this entire palace still stood, preserved reasonably intact. It was only during the middle ages that the palace was finally destroyed for its materials.

Domitian also expanded the palace complex on the other side of the Domus Augustus with the addition of a Stadium, now visible as a long pit, supported by large brick retaining walls, with rows of columns running down either side of the long axis and terminating at the south end with a high curved wall. It appears as though the building may have once held a roof over it, which is astounding because the area is very large – nearly 50 meters wide, and well over a hundred meters long. The Stadium is shaped much like the Circus Maximus, but is far too small to have served for horse races. Instead, Domitian used the Stadium to watch other athletic events, like foot races and perhaps wrestling. Before they had Pay-Per-View, you just had to build your own stadium.

After eating lunch across the Tiber at a deli which charged for our sandwiches by weight, we returned to the area near the forum and Palatine Hill to visit the Colosseum. The Colosseum began construction under the reign of Emperor Vespasian, the first of the Flavian Dynasty, and completed in 80 AD by his son Emperor Titus. It’s an elliptical amphitheater with major and minor axes measuring 189 and 156 meters, and its outer walls rise 48 meters straight up from the pavement. When it was active, it could hold over fifty thousand spectators to watch gladiatorial combat, plays, public executions, and mock hunts of wild animals. The Colosseum is one of the better preserved buildings from Rome’s ancient past, standing nearly complete apart from the southern section of the outermost walls and seating, which collapsed during an earthquake some centuries ago. It’s main structure is built primarily of travertine, with additional brick components on the interior nonessential to the support of the building, like seating supports, stairways and the like. The outer wall of the Colosseum, of which a significant portion still remains, presented a facade of white carved travertine, and was adorned with three layers of columns which went the entire perimeter of the theater. The facade is quite impressive, and much of the carving is in remarkable condition considering the age of the structure and its exposure to the elements (and repeated sacking of the city by invaders).

The site of the Colosseum was once an artificial like, built there by the tyrannical Emperor Nero who is suspected of having started a fire in Rome to burn down the buildings occupying that place specifically so he could use the area for his own amusement. Vespasian had the lake filled in, and demolished much of the other structures built by Nero for himself, intending to return the space to the public as a means of garnering citizen support. His decision to replace the private lake with a public amphitheater, the largest and most extravagant of its kind in the world, was an extremely popular one and helped guarantee Vespasian’s status as a loved and emulated emperor. Completed shortly after Vespasian’s death, it was Emperor Titus who hosted the inaugural games, which lasted for a hundred days continuously. Titus’ younger brother, Emperor Domitian, continued modifications to the Colosseum, and is responsible for the hypogeum of the Colosseum, which is a series of underground chambers and tunnel beneath a new wooden floor of the arena, used for storing and moving animals, slaves, and gladiators, which could all be lifted to the arena floor through trapdoors. Today, that wooden floor is rotted away, and the chambers of the hypogeum are visible.

The architecture of the Colosseum is quite complicated, and also surprisingly modern. The innards of the building are a complex series of arches on arches supporting multiple levels accessible by wide stairways. Each floor has an outer arcade running around the building’s perimeter with multiple passageways in towards the seating. The arrangement is extremely reminiscent of modern stadiums, and I can’t help but think that they must all be modeled after this one. On an upper floor, one passes through an archway and stands on an inner arcade, also running around the whole inner perimeter, with the arena floor visible in the middle. Seating rises up on brick-supported bleachers, which are built in segments with stairways on either side. This is, of course, exactly how most modern stadiums work. Furthermore, the passageways and sections of seating were all numbered, as were the individual seats – a person’s ticket would indicate to them what level, which passageway to go through, what section to sit in, and what seat was theirs. On the lower level nearest the arena, there was even box seating reserved for Senators. The Colosseum also boasted a partial retractable roof, in the form of a series of cloth canopies extending from the top of the outer wall in towards the arena and operated by sailors.

What Beth and I did not realize about the Colosseum which I think most people probably don’t know is that there is a sort of museum on the second floor, in the outer arcade. I’m not sure if the exhibit they had there was temporary or permanent, but there when we were there we saw an exhibit about the Flavian dynasty of Emperors, Vespasian, Titus, and Domitian, who are responsible for the Colosseum’s existence. There was also a significant amount of interesting background about the building, as well as several fragments of travertine showing different parts of the facade, the pieces having been recovered from the debris following the earthquake which ravage the southern walls. Particularly interesting were pieces of stone showing where Romans had actually carved ancient graffiti into the walls of the Colosseum. These were depictions of battles, and names of favored gladiators or hunters carved by fans of the games. They were always simple line drawings, carved with a sewing needle perhaps, or a knife, but they were fascinating because they provided a means to understand some of how an average Roman thought – that is, pretty similarly to how modern people think, haphazardly carving whatever they feel like into walls and poles. At least the ancient Romans had the sense to carve pictures instead of something asinine like “Roy was here”. Though, no doubt, the equivalent was probably carved, just not displayed in the museum.

It was on the way back from the Colosseum (which we were kicked out of because it was getting late and the place was closing) that I got to thinking about the relationship these modern Romans have with their history, with the ancient structures in the middle of their city. And I realized that Americans don’t understand what history is. We don’t understand tradition, we don’t understand heritage. We think we do. We think we have history. But we don’t – what we have are stories of the recent past, and a set of customs that we self-consciously hand from one generation to the next. We don’t have history or heritage – we are seeking it.

What the Romans have is something I don’t understand myself, even though I know they have it. They have continuity with their past – history is not stories to them, it’s just what and who they are. We can talk about myths of Roman gods and to us they are stories, and though nobody believes them anymore, the old mythology isn’t just mythology to the Romans – to all Italians! – it’s a very real part of their heritage that defines them culturally. Mars, Diana, Saturn are all real to these people, not in a religious sense, but in a way that I’m not really capable of explaining. They’re still important, they’re still relevant. People still honor Caesar, people still have shrines to Diana, and buildings still say SPQR. They don’t have to try to connect with their past like Americans do – they live in and among their past all the time. It’s not just the Italians – the French as well have this connection to their nation, to their people, to their history that Americans lack entirely. It’s the reason that a Frenchman can come to America, live here a while, get citizenship, and become American in every sense of the word that matters, but I could never become French.

In America we have to visit old things, and see history displayed before us as an act or an exhibit. It’s a spectacle, even our own past, our own supposed heritage. We go and see historic Jamestown, or watch a Civil War reenactment. Anything like that in Europe I think would only be attractive to foreign tourists – they don’t have to try. They don’t have to visit anything. People go to mass in Notre Dame. People go to mass in the Pantheon, for crying out loud. They walk down streets that have existed for two thousand years. They attend festivals that have been repeated annually for centuries. It’s just what they are and who they are. I don’t think Americans understand that, and I’m not sure we can. We don’t have history – we have stories. We don’t have tradition – we have artificial surrogates of tradition, rituals that have been created in recent memory with the express purpose of becoming tradition. And that’s the kicker – we try. They don’t.

I’m going to withhold judgment on whether history and heritage good or bad things to have. It makes us flexible and open not to have it. But I think, nevertheless, we crave it – why else would we try so hard? It’s probably neither good nor bad, just a difference. A misunderstanding. I don’t know, really. But it gave me pause to think that evening, our last in Rome.





A City and a Garden

24 06 2009

During the time of the Roman Republic and extending into the Imperial period, a common way to refer to Rome was Senatus Populusque Romanus, which translates to the “Senate and People of Rome”. This was a moniker both for Rome, the nation-state, and for the government itself, which was supposedly acting with the direct consent of the citizens. At least during the Republic, this wasn’t just words – the people of Rome did have a fair amount of say in how the nation was governed, at least as concerned legislative activities. During the Empire, the name remained as the Emperors were still expected to act upon the will and advice of the people, though this was certainly not always true. Nevertheless, this phrase was used in reference to the nation of Rome for centuries, and was shortened to the initialism SPQR. SPQR appeared on the banners carried into battle by Roman legionnaires and was carved into government buildings. It was, essentially, the ancient Roman equivalent of USA or PRC.

This phrase and this abbreviation, SPQR, date back at least to the first century BC, and possibly as far back as the fifth century. It’s a sequence of letters you’ve probably seen in movie portrayals of ancient Rome. I’ve also seen it in video games set in the same time period. The abbreviation is associated quite strongly with ancient Roman government. I was rather surprised, then, when I noticed that in Rome, today, that four-letter sequence still appears everywhere. Government buildings carry the inscription, as do manhole covers and public notifications. Something as mundane as a paper sign taped to a lamppost informing passersby that the road is closed for repaving two hundred meters ahead and a detour has been marked carries the same moniker as the purple banners flown before the ranks of the feared centurions. When I came to notice these inscriptions everywhere it was a rather surreal realization, that on some level there was a direct continuation of the old Rome to the new. In some small way, the Roman Senate, the Roman Republic still lived on. In fact, SPQR is the city motto and it’s used as it was used in the ancient days to mark the works and presence of the government, acting here on behalf of the people of Rome.

We passed the inscription many times as we made our way through the city on our second day in Rome. That morning we proceeded directly to Vatican City, intending to spend the better part of the day there. Just approaching Vatican City is a rather dramatic experience, as one reaches the far end of Via della Conciliazione on the bank of the Tiber, and looks down towards the facade of St. Peter’s Basilica. The road is wide and clear, and aligned to the front of the Basilica and the obelisk standing in front of it. The road slopes slightly upwards towards Vatican City, and its up this slope that pilgrims (or tourists) must walk to get to their holy site, the face of the Basilica growing wider and taller they approach. It’s a magnificent walk.   To enter Vatican City, one merely crosses the street and passes a row of traffic barricades. The first thing encountered is the vast oval of Piazza San Pietro, or St. Peter’s Square. The oval arrangement of this plaza is oriented with the minor axis parallel to the Basilica, the major axis this forming wingson either side of the facade. Each of these wings is demarcated by colossal colonnades bearing white marble sculptures on the roofs. Those colonnades curve around the rims of the oval, but turn and continue straight forward some distance to form a grand entrance to the Basilica. The great red Egyptian obelisk marks the center of the oval, and at the radii midpoints of the major axis there stand two beautifully carved fountains. That piazza is actually a vast space, and at any time there are a great number of folks walking through it, either entering of exiting the Basilica, or just sitting on the steps before the obelisk, admiring the views.

The colonnades on either side really constrict the view and bring it straight on to the facade of St. Peter’s Basilica. This is a rather peculiar facade for a church, I think, as it appears more like a palace than a cathedral. Made of travertine, the bears a row of columns on the bottom floor supporting what appear to be two more floors of rooms above, each of which bear enormous windows. I say there are three storeys, as it appears on the facade, but make no mistake – the facade is well over forty meters high, much taller than would normally accommodate three floors. The walls are mostly stately sheer travertine, punctuated by the columns and window bays, which bear carved ornamentation giving a very royal European quality, but not the kind of religious authority that might be expected of the holiest site in the world for over a billion Catholics. It really looks less like a basilica, and more like – well, Versailles. In some sense, however, it still bears the required punch – the facade of St. Peter’s Basilica, intact for well over four hundred years, is a very well-known sight, and is what people think of when they think Vatican. For that reason alone, it still definitely evokes the idea of Catholic authority.

To actually enter the Basilica it is necessary to pass through a security gate like that at an airport, with x-ray machines and metal detectors. Passing through this checkpoint, near the northern colonnade of the piazza, brings one through a barricaded passage towards the Basilica’s facade. The security at the checkpoint are not, unfortunately, the famous Swiss guards. These garishly dressed pikemen are present around the entrance of the Basilica, and do seem to serve a security function by standing in the way of entrances off limits to visitors. As a real security force, though, one must question the effectiveness of men with spears dressed like the joker in a deck of cards. However, there are a number of other security personnel, both inside and outside the Basilica that look more like Secret Service than medieval jesters, and I’ll bet they actually carry guns. Entering through the archways on the facade takes one into a sort of vestibule with a ceiling made of huge wooden arch frames, all ornately painted, adorned with carvings, and gilded. What appears to be the entrance of the Basilica is only this portico, the actual entrance lying just beyond, obscured by the massive structure of the facade.

It’s difficult to get a feel for the scale of St. Peter’s Basilica, even upon entering it and beginning to walk down the nave. I think because it’s proportioned so much like a smaller cathedral would be, it’s easy to think that those dimensions must also be of a smaller church. However, this is fallacy – St. Peter’s Basilica is stupendously large, as one realizes when looking down its length, and seeing, as though placed there just for the sake of scale, the people at the far end beneath the dome, standing next to the four mighty piers which hold it up. It then becomes apparent that those piers are about 18 meters wide, and that four of them are required to hold up the dome. It becomes apparent, as well, that from the end of the nave where one observes this, there must be a tremendous distance. And indeed, to the nearest of those gargantuan pillars is well over 100 meters – and 43 meters again to the next pair! The people walking about near the rows of columns on either side of the nave look like comically undersized dolls, and looking up at the carved cherubs and rosettes on the ceiling and around the nave, it’s also apparent that they, too, must be enormous just to be visible from that height. The floor is sheer marble, adorned with tiled pieces of different colors displaying tasteful geometric patterns, also much larger than they appear upon first glance. The vaulted ceiling in the nave rises over 46 meters above that marble floor, and is a visual cacophony of rectangular sections lined with white and carved all around with hopelessly complex rosettes and motifs, all covered in gold. The entablature of the nave is only partly gilded, a gold band going the whole way round with some Latin inscription I don’t understand, while the rest of the white stone (travertine perhaps – it doesn’t look to be marble) is carved into more terribly complicated rosettes and labyrinths, sculptured into foliage, or more humanoid figures, either saints or angels, and all of truly elephantine proportions. The columns as well have cherubic figures carved into them and are adorned with red marble and of course, more gold. The nave, and in fact that entire Basilica is quite well lit by a number of very large windows at the ends of the transept and nave, and along the sides of the nave as well in arched bays above the entablature.

At the end of the nave beneath the dome, and at the center of those four tremendous piers, one sees the high altar of the cathedral, all marble, built over the supposed tomb of St. Peter himself, which is visible in a stairway down under the altar, but not directly accessible by the public. Over that high altar towers a spectacular bronze canopy called simply the Baldachin. The Baldachin appears to be a canopy of sorts, like a pavilion or the like, but made of bronze and standing upon four thick bronze columns. The columns are twisted helically, and decorated with laurels and other symbols, most of which I’m sure have some kind of significance for Catholics or Popes. To me, it all just looks magnificent, the meaning totally lost, but the craftsmanship quite apparent. Some of the finer motifs on the columns, and much of the details and sculpting on the cornice are gilded, naturally, as is the enormous ball and cross at the apex of the canopy structure. The canopy itself it fantastically ornate, with human figures leaning out over observers, holding crosses and sporting wings and the like. The overall design is quite Baroque, with both the naturalistic feel and the propensity to gild things that are hallmarks of that style. Though you will hear it rumored that the bronze ceiling of the Pantheon’s portico was salvaged to build the Baldachin, that bronze was in fact used to fortify the Castel Sant’Angelo just down the street, as I said in the previous post.

And of course, just above the Baldachin is that dome. It’s a shame that the interior of St. Peter’s Basilica is so difficult to handle in its scale. Perhaps the decoration is too busy to get a handle on anything, to be able to focus clearly on any point. The dome is large, that is clear. But just how large is not readily apparent – it certainly doesn’t look higher than the Duomo of Florence or nearly as wide as the Pantheon. However, from the floor of the cathedral to the apex of the dome is well over 100 meters. It sits upon a drum rising more than seventy meters which is in turn supported on the colossal piers, each of which holds marble sculptures, probably of saints, though I can’t be certain. The dome is decorated on the inside by grand paintings, done in sections between the ribs of the dome (which is an ovoid dome much like the Duomo). As usual, I’m not sure what these are really paintings of – there are human figures, possibly saints or angels, and likely some disciples in there as well, and I think that these human figures are what detract actually from the scale of the dome – used as reference, it doesn’t appear that big – however, the figures themselves must be gigantic. They are painted brightly and colorfully, and I have no complaints about the chosen segmented designs which frame different figures. However, there is a lot of gilding. The drum as well is adorned with frescoes and more gold, and a cornice all the way around that stands below a row of large, bright windows is, of course, completely gilded. What a surprise.

Behind the high alter, at the very back of the church there stands another enormous bronze statue, done in the same style as the Baldachin. It is a gigantic reliquary, supposedly containing the papal chair used by St. Peter. (Actually a much later chair that entered the papal repertoire in 857.) This reliquary consists of a ridiculously ornate bronze chair of fantastic size being supported by the hands of four human figures, almost certainly saints. The chair and all four of the humans are very gilded. The chair is adorned with leaf rosettes and twirling symmetrical designs, feeling quite Baroque. Angelic figures, dwarfed by the chair but likely as big as a man, stand in front of and on top of the chair. A background stands behind the chair composes entirely of golden clouds and light beams emanating from the chair, and from a stained glass window, yellow and white, just over the back of the chair. The clouds themselves are also beset with multitudes of angelic figures, fluttering about and looking very busy. It’s all extraordinarily dramatic, and quite a lot of fuss over a chair, but I suppose this St. Peter was quite a guy.

In fact, St. Peter’s Basilica is full of ornate shrines and relics like this, and I don’t know what any of them are. There are some important tombs set up as well to royalty and particularly popular popes, and while these were all exquisitely sculpted and decorated, I can’t say I really understood who any of them were. There is a rather marvelous bronze statue of the man himself, St. Peter, with one foot worn down to a nub from centuries of people kissing it.

Also present in Michaelangelo’s masterpiece, the Pieta, a gorgeous marble sculpture of the dead Christ lying in the arms and lap of the mourning Virgin Mary. Once again, Michaelangelo astounds with his attention to minute details and his ability to realistically portray the human figure, with Jesus’ gaunt frame hanging from Mary’s lap just as one would expect, the limbs bending and drooping naturally, the head hanging back limp, but not contorted. We see again the creases in the skin and the veins exactly where they should be, appearing just as they should. Mary holds Jesus with her arm supporting his shoulders, her hand just below his armpit, and this causes the flesh just around the front of his shoulder to fold up, pushed forward by the weight of Jesus’ body. The way Michaelangelo depicts this seems to me especially realistic, and it gives both figures a fleshy, supple appearance. The folds of Mary’s clothing, voluminous and draped, is also quite variegated and appears quite natural. As with David, there does seem to be a lack of realism in some of the proportions – Mary appears larger than Jesus, which seems unlikely, but not so much larger that she looks ridiculous. Instead, again, this disproportionality enhances the image by allowing Mary to fully encompass and embrace the figure of her dying son – he’s not hanging ludicrously over her tiny lap, as he likely would have done, given their probable relative sizes. This is a fitting place for such a glorious work by Michaelangelo – much of the architecture of the Basilica, including most of the designs for the dome and the floorplan, were conceived by the master himself!

We took our leave of the Basilica through the front again and made our way towards the Vatican Museum. To get to the museum from Piazza San Pietro it is necessary to walk around the north side of Vatican City, along the rather prodigious city wall. The walk is actually fairly long, and a great many people walking with us around the Vatican were becoming confused over whether we were heading the right way or had passed it somehow. There aren’t enough signs to really indicate where, exactly, the entrance is. Intuitively, one might expect it to be near the piazza – Beth and I had expected such, and were ourselves somewhat apprehensive during the long walk. However, sure enough, following the city wall around the north side will eventually get one to the museum entrance, which is fairly unmistakable.

When we first entered the Vatican Museum, Beth and I immediately began searching about for a good map to take with us – at the Louvre, our maps had been indispensable, and we expected a similar experience. Quickly we realized that there were no maps of the Vatican Museum, and we believed then that we would have to rely entirely upon posted signs to find our way around. Previous experience had already indicated that the Italians were not very good about posting useful signage, so we were a bit worried. Our worry, however, was entirely unfounded – the Vatican Museum is kind of like a ride at an amusement park. You get on at the front, and then there is a single path through the museum to the end. You see everything, and it’s almost totally linear, with only a few straight branches at a few points. Maps are not present because maps are not necessary – there’s only one way to go. On the one hand, this is nice because you know you won’t miss anything and you won’t get lost. On the other hand, you won’t miss anything – if you get tired or hungry like we were by the end, you’ve still got a push on to the end, and it would be criminal to just rush through. The Vatican Museum is really fantastic.

There are a number of galleries holding masterworks of painting, with pieces by Raphael, da Vinci, Giotto, and Rubens. Much of this is, of course, religious in nature, but there is also a good selection of mythological works that seem to be a mainstay of Renaissance art. There are also a number of galleries holding objects d’art, such as crowns and watches, adorned with gold and inset designs in ivory and jade. A few galleries contain works of Egyptian antiquity as well, including canopic jars, sculptures of Set and Ramses, and some sarcophagi. As with the Louvre, however, I was most impressed with the sculpture pieces in the museum, of which there are many. The sculpture collection of the Vatican is impressive and very large. Of course there are a number of works by Renaissance artists, including Michaelangelo, but there are also several sculptures of Classical origin. A number of contemporary Roman Imperial busts are displayed, as well as a full-size sculpture of Emperor Augustus, also thought to be contemporary. Again, the mythological plays with the historical and religious in the sculpture galleries, and we get a number of pieces depicting gods and goddesses of antiquity, and busts depicting Emperors as a selected god, a popular practice after an Emperor had died (or during their life, in the case of a few particularly arrogant Emperors). Also present are a number of epitaphs or other ancient inscriptions, as well as a few massive carved sarcophagi, usually of some wealthy Senator or another. A number of excellent bronze pieces also exist, including some very nice lions and a pair of peacocks currently under restoration. Many galleries possess beautifully mosaiced floors as well, with the most interesting segments always roped off for the sake of preservation.

One of the most exciting areas of the museum is the series of rooms simply called the Raphael rooms. These are a cluster of connected chambers bearing frescoes by the famous master and his studio and bear some of the most famous works of Renaissance fresco in the world. The fame of these rooms is well deserved, for these are remarkable paintings, bearing the striking color and contrast that I find so refreshing about Raphael’s work. They are also large enough that a tremendous amount of activity can be fit into these paintings, and it is. Each of the four rooms has a theme, three of them historical, and the fourth most famous Room of the Signatura bearing the theme of wisdom and reason. The historical rooms are exquisite and tell stories which are exciting even with my ignorance of what, exactly, is going on. There is an image that I recognize as the coronation of Charlemagne, and a few battle images, but I’m not certain of the rest. The detail is superb, the quality genuinely mastercraft. The fourth room, however, is my favorite. The Room of the Signatura bears frescoes that have, I feel, a more Classical feel to them, both in style and subject. The gestures and attire of the characters are simple and elegant, the color is rich, and the use of visual metaphor is rampant. One wall carries Raphael’s Disputation of the Holy Sacrament, a wonderfully done work of religious art that metaphorically represents the church spanning both Earth and Heaven. Opposite that is probably Raphael’s most famous work, and possibly one of the most famous frescoes in the world apart from those in the Sistine Chapel, The School of Athens, which is essentially a gigantic who’s who of Classical philosophers. Pythagoras, Aristotle, Plato, Diogenes – they’re all there, as well as Raphael himself peeking out from behind a few scholars at the right edge of the painting.

Shortly after leaving these masterpieces of fresco, one comes to the majestic Sistine Chapel, now a fully incorporated part of the museum. It’s difficult to talk about the Sistine Chapel. For one thing, all of you who read this have almost certainly seen in photography almost everything of interest in the Chapel – you know of Michaelangelo’s famous Genesis scenes on the ceiling, his depictions of the ancestors of Jesus along the wall panels, and his vast fresco, The Last Judgment. On the other hand, it’s rather different to be there and see it all life size, and to try to comprehend just how much work it was to put together these images. It’s insufficient, really, to call the Sistine Chapel a masterpiece – any single panel or fresco could be considered a masterpiece. The paintings are simply too large – surely their existence is impossible, with this level of detail and craftsmanship. The wonder is enhanced when it is considered that the master behind all this work, Michaelangelo, was primarily a sculptor, not a painter. It’s been rumored that a rival of Michaelangelo’s convinced the Pope to commission the work from him in order to humiliate Michaelangelo when he failed to impress with painting. Though probably apocryphal, if the story is true, this rival surely had more than egg on his face – I’d say an omelette.

The Last Judgment is particularly impressive, as it’s so fantastically detailed and busy – there are scores of figures in that work, and each one is doing something, expressing something, saying something. The painting is centered on Jesus, depicted rather differently than normal, lacking beard and appearing quite muscular. He is a wrathful Christ as well, raising an arm over his head as though about to strike. Around him are the host of heaven, with the disciples and saints in clouds at his level, and angels descending from above, carrying the cross on the left and what appears to be a marble column on the right (I don’t understand that part). Below Christ’s level are struggling souls being brought up to Heaven and dragged down to Hell, with demons and angels mingling alike to guide souls to their rightful places. As one might expect during the Apocalypse, everyone appears very confused and frantic, even the saints and angels – a nice change, frankly, from some of the bland serene expressions I see on paintings of saints, even in the face of martyred doom. Again there’s a mingling of the religious and mythological, with the River Styx clearly depicted at floor level, with souls being ferried across to the flaming pit of Hell in the bottom right corner. My only complaint with the painting is that it’s too big to really be able to appreciate the detail put into it – the details near the top are lost completely, being too far away for the human eye to even resolve. The fresco is just that big.

The ceiling panels are exquisite as well, and guide the viewer through the first few chapters of Genesis, from the creation of the Earth in the first panel, through the creation of the animals, to the central panel, the famous Creation of Adam with God bestowing life through the outstretched arm of the reclining Adam. This is followed by panels showing the creation of Eve, and then the Fall and expulsion from Eden. The last few panels seem to show Noah before, during, and after the Flood. However, like The Last Judgment, it’s difficult to fully appreciate these works, as they are just too far overhead to get a good detailed look at. Also, because they are on the ceiling, it’s actually very difficult just to look at them at all – I had to lean back at a ridiculous angle in order to see them in sequence. That being said, the Sistine Chapel is spectacular, and well worth the crick in my neck.

The remaining galleries of the museum include a long hallway adorned with frescoed topographical maps of Italy, showing in great detail and with superb style the various towns and villages of the Italian countryside. One of the last galleries is a series of rooms contained works of modern religious art. I was unimpressed by many of these works, but there are a few thoughtful gems. The abstract nature of so many of these modern pieces seems inappropriate to the supposedly religious nature of their subject. Curiously, there is a Dali piece included in this collection, and while I appreciate Dali’s work, I can’t for the life of me understand why that particular work was deemed religious. But with Dali, who’s to say? Unfortunately as well, Beth and I were getting hungry and tired by this time, and probably not in the best condition to attempt something as rigorous as art appreciation.

The Vatican had consumed the better part of our day, but after a late lunch we still had energy enough to begin wandering again to the north of Rome. We walked down a long street saturated with shopping venues – possibly this was the Roman equivalent of a shopping mall – and ended up at the Piazza del Popolo. This plaza is a square capped on its west and east ends by semicircular segments, forming a cobbled area probably large enough to contain a football field. At the center of this piazza is yet another Egyptian obelisk set upon a pedestal and girded by four fountains at the corners. Each of the semicircular segments of the piazza is defined by a brick wall which demarcated the piazza nicely on either side. The piazza itself contained several hawkers as well as a number of street performers, including a man playing Stairway to Heaven on an electric guitar with an amp that was, I can only presume, battery operated. Just beyond the west end of the piazza is a series of steps, adorned with sculptures of what appear to be gods or Roman soldiers, leading up to another piazza higher up.

This is the Pincian hill, with another piazza set upon it. As we had the previous day, from atop this stairway one gets another excellent view of Rome, though from a totally different angle. The Pincian hill backs up against a vast wooded garden, the gardens of the Villa Borghese. We proceeded through these gardens for hours, and would recommend them as a relaxing and beautiful place to take a long stroll. Near our entrance to the area we witnessed an old water clock, functional for over a hundred years drawing water from a pond at its base. Rows of busts girded walkways where children and adults alike rode in ridiculous pedal-driven carts which could be rented from several locations in the garden. The gardens of Italy differ markedly from those of France, with the observer able to go into the garden to fully experience it. These gardens are also not as meticulously groomed, with grass allowed to have a slightly ragged look, and flowers allowed to grow, bloom, and wilt gracefully without the meddling hands of a gardener plucking away all the imperfection. These gardens feel more alive to me, less like boxes of color and more like actual plants growing from dirt.

Further on in the gardens, the area takes on more the appearance of a park, with maps detailing the locations of lakes, bike paths, and bridges. We quickly became enamored with signage pointing the way to something called a “Bioparco,” which we suspected was just a zoo, but imagined might be something different and perhaps more interesting. In any case, it gave us a direction to head in what turned out to be a very large park with very nicely arranged paths and green areas. I regret that we did not deviate from one of the central boulevards to check out the nice artificial lake, though we were able to see the equestrian stadium near the center, presumably for the same sorts of horse races that have entertained Romans for thousands of years. We passed villas and museums, and eventually found our way to the Bioparco which was, as we suspected, only a zoo. We took a different path to exit the vast park, coming around the southern half which we had not seen walking to the zoo. On our way back we even passed what proved to be a small shrine to the goddess Diana. There is not a part of the gardens of Villa Borghese that is not pleasant and relaxing, and our emergence from the park was met with a bit of regret.

Our second day in Rome was concluded with a light dinner of sandwiches (for our lunch of pizza had been quite large and quite late) eaten near the Trevi Fountain in failing light.





Crisis at Rome

21 06 2009

We left Florence the next morning by train to Rome, a trip of a couple hours which deposited us at the Rome Termini train station a little after noon. Our hostel was very close to the train station, and we were able to walk there in about fifteen or twenty minutes, with a bit of confusion at the end because the hostel was not well labeled from the street. Checking in to the hostel, I had to pay for our stay with cash due to hostel policy. So it was with great apprehension that I handed over the necessary money, beginning my private panic.

Let me explain the situation fully. To begin, before I arrived in Paris, Beth had already been traveling through France on a bike trip with our friend Davinia. During that trip, Beth lost a pack containing her passport, credit card, and bank card. Upon noticing the pack missing, Beth immediately started the wheels turning to get in touch the American embassy and canceled her cards in order to avoid fraudulent charges should they be found. Fortunately, the pack was found by a friendly stranger who tracked down Beth based on itinerary information in the pack, and delivered it to her, so Beth didn’t have to get a new passport or anything similarly complicated. However, her cards were still nonfunctional, so Beth was now essentially dependent upon her travel companions for money.

I learned about this before I left, and was prepared, I thought, to pay for both of us through our trip, content to allow Beth to pay me back eventually by check some weeks later. I came to Europe with a credit card and a debit card which functions like a credit card. The latter I used throughout the trip, supplemented by cash, in euros, which I picked up at the airport before I left Houston. By our last day in Florence, however, I was beginning to run low on cash and thought it would be wise to visit and ATM for more. I was aware at that point that the hostel in Rome was cash only, so knew that I needed at least that much, but also more in case certain restaurants or shops had similar restrictions.

Knowing that I would likely need more cash at some point later on, I had made a point before leaving for Europe of finding and memorizing my pin. I hardly ever use cash in the States, and so never really need my pin for anything, which invariably causes me to forget it – it becomes necessary to rememorize it every time I need to use it. To further ensure that I would not forget it, I found a mathematical curiosity unique to my pin and wrote it down on a tiny slip which I placed in my wallet – nobody but me would understand the digits I wrote on that slip, but it contained sufficient information for me to rederive my number if necessary. However, in Florence when I tried this pin, it failed to function. Absolutely convinced that I had memorized the correct pin, I tried again at a couple other ATMs, each time becoming increasingly frustrated when it failed. Furthermore, I could not find the tiny slip I had hidden in my wallet, and in order to confirm my pin I had to begin doing divisions and multiplications by hand to try to rederive my unique mathematical clue. Looking back now, I most certainly did remember the correct number, and even managed to derive my clue again by hand.

However, it seems that the pin I had written down in my documents at home was out of date – at some point I cannot now remember, I changed my pin, and had no idea what it was. So the pin I had tried several times at multiple ATMs was incorrect – it was not, as I suspected, a failure of communication between my bank and the banks who operated these ATMs. Later in the evening, I noticed that my debit card was now also failing to function in its normal capacity as a credit card surrogate – it now seemed to be completely nonfunctional. At this point, the reality of the situation was beginning to creep in – I was not yet certain that I had been using the incorrect pin, but I was becoming more certain that my debit card was no longer going to function. That night I logged on to my banking website to check the status of my checking account, only to find that I had received no emails, and no notifications whatsoever on my account to indicate that anything at all was wrong. When I tried to call the Italian contact number for my bank, I got only a continuously repeating recording in Italian – I have no idea what it was telling me, but it obviously wasn’t about my bank. I did, however, take the time to reset my pin online, allowing me to set it again to something else that I couldn’t forget.

The next day, the card failed when I tried to pay for our stay at the Florence hostel, which asked for pay at the end of the stay rather than the beginning. I placed the charge on my credit card. At the Florence train station, the card failed at an ATM using the new pin. I became convinced then that the account was completely frozen, which meant I needed to rely on my credit card alone for money. This, however, was not going to work, and I knew it – my credit limit is not very high, and the dollar-to-euro exchange rate is unforgiving. Here the real panic began. I reluctantly used my credit card to obtain cash from a currency exchange in order to pay for our hostel in Rome, cringing at the thought of a cash advance charge and more than a bit embarrassed that I even had to make such a transaction. Normally, I take pride in my lack of debt or need of it – now it was of the utmost necessity.

Upon arriving in Rome and handing over nearly all our cash to pay for our stay, I immediately got online again to check my account once more. Again, my checking account indicated no problems, an ironic reality which I cursed horribly. My credit account, however, indicated another terrible problem – pending charges made earlier in the day would place my account slightly over limit as soon as they cleared. I then attempted to issue a credit card payment directly from my checking account, as I always do, to settle the debt before it even cleared. However, to my infinite frustration, my bank would only allow me to make payments up to the amount of cleared charges – a paltry $86 – so I could pay back none of the other charges while they were still pending. This gave me a laughably small available credit of about $50.

After getting the same infuriating Italian recording on the Italian branch bank number, I tried to call my bank in America, resigned to the expensive international call fees which I would incur. Failure again, however, when another recording informed me that I was calling outside normal business hours – I had forgotten the time difference!

It should be noted at this point that I had not actually informed Beth of the full magnitude of our crisis. She was aware that my card was not working at ATMs and also aware that it was being, at the least, anomalous in other ways. I don’t know if she was aware that my card had simply ceased to work altogether, and I certainly didn’t tell her that I had essentially run out of credit. In order to avoid causing her to panic (as I was beginning to do), I had withheld a considerable amount of information. Later, she thanked me for doing this. I do not regret it.

So it was with her ignorance blissfully intact that we left our hostel to wander Rome for the afternoon, me sweating all the way. As I was too busy worrying and fretting about our own little financial crisis, Beth handled the map and navigation, and brought us within a few minutes to the Trevi Fountain, an enormous marble entourage of sculpted figures with a clearly mythological motif standing before the back of a stone building faced with white columns. The figure in the center is Oceanus, Roman god of water, and I’m not really sure what else is going on – there are women in robes that may or may not be gods, and there are guys apparently fighting with hippocampi. It’s all very dramatic, and all very Baroque – a nice change from the Gothic Christianity of the last week or so. And moreover, it’s very Roman – the Trevi Fountain is exactly the sort of enormous public sculpture one would expect to find in Rome. In fact, it’s exactly the sort of public sculpture one would expect to find in ancient Rome, so how convenient that it’s here today. It was actually completed in 1762 under a Papal commission – by Roman standard, absolutely modern. Today its surrounded by terraces and steps leading down to the rail around the fountain’s pool, where hundreds of euros worth of coins are tossed every day. It’s a scenic place to sit for lunch or gelato, and after that first encounter, we would pass it many times on our way to other sites.

I say that the Trevi Fountain was exactly what one would expect to find in Rome, and truth be told, the entirety of Rome is like that. I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised – that Rome looks like Rome. But when we speak of Rome, we speak of more than a city. We speak of an entire culture, ancient and admired which set much of the foundation for the rest of European development. We speak of the Classic period, and we have words like “Romanesque.” It’s an idealization that is conjured up when we say “Rome,” and somehow I didn’t actually expect the city to look like that. I thought the idea of Rome would be more Roman than the reality of Rome, the way that orange juice tastes more like oranges than oranges actually do. But Rome really does feel like Rome – in every way, for every time, in all ages. Pagan gods look down from the facades of Catholic churches. Carved pillars of stone thousands of years old stand before cobbled piazzas. Greened bronze statues are as likely to be of Perseus or Hercules as they are to be Pope Pius VII or Vittorio Emanuele II. Everything is made of white marble and travertine, and the fences are wrought iron with gilded gates. It is Rome.

Much of this first day I still don’t remember very well, being as preoccupied as I was with our dire fiscal situation, so I don’t actually recall the walk from the Trevi Fountain to the Pantheon – to me it seemed almost instantaneous. My frightful reverie was broken by this structure, however, for the Pantheon is wonderful. The Pantheon, not to be confused with the Pantheon in Paris, is a huge concrete domed building constructed as a temple to honor all the gods. The present structure was completed during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, in the second century AD, and though it is ancient, the building is not some derelict ruin. In the 7th century, it was converted to a Catholic church, still active to this day, and now open to the public. A massive portico with a sheer pediment supported by sixteen granite columns stands before the entranceway sporting a pair of enormous bronze doors, dating from much later, as evidenced by the fact that they are too small for the original door frame. This portico once sported a ceiling of huge bronze plates, but these were removed by the orders of Pope Urban VIII in order to build cannons for the nearby Castel Sant’Angelo, another ancient structure of Hadrian’s reign (actually his tomb) repurposed by Christians years later.

Beyond the entrance is a single spacious room with that dome overhead – 43 meters in diameter, and the dome 43 meters high, the interior able to both contain a sphere or be contained by a cube of the same dimension. The dome is made entirely of ancient Roman concrete and is completely self-supporting – there are no pillars, no external or internal structures to give additional strength. The truly inconceivable weight of that dome is set upon walls more than six meters thick. While the dome of the Pantheon is not the highest dome I have ever seen, the fact that it bears no additional support structures and is not vaulted, but rather spherical makes it the most impressive I’ve seen – at least from an engineer’s perspective. And it’s stood now for over eighteen centuries – that’s build quality I can respect. At the apex of the coffered dome ceiling is an oculus just over 9 meters wide opening to the sky, providing that vast space with light. (I have to wonder if this was originally intended, or if it was improvised when Roman engineers began to get itchy about whether the center of the dome would be able to hold itself up.) The rest of the Pantheon’s interior is interesting as well – there are a series of niches set into the circular wall which likely contained pagan shrines at one time. Today, the largest of these niches, set directly opposite the entrance, serves as the high altar of the Catholic church occupying the building today, complete with image of the Madonna. Many of the other niches have been converted to tiny chapels, with a number of fine frescoes and sculptures. Some of them, however, serve as tombs – one to the first king of Italy, King Vittorio Emanuele II, another to King Umberto I, and the third to the great artist Raphael. The wall around the chamber has been decorated in the last few centuries with marble panels and columns surrounding these niches and shrines, and it’s all very pretty and Baroque, but ultimately I would say that the Pantheon is an engineer’s monument – the dome is the focus of that place, and it’s magnificent. Apart from its square coffers, it’s unadorned concrete, but it impresses with its precision, its size, and its ancience. Even those coffers are functional, reducing the mass of the dome to reduce internal strain. The incredible mass of the Pantheon is evident in the interior of the building, however – the floor is obviously not flat, sinking significantly near the walls which take the full weight. (Edit: It occurs to me now that this may have actually been intentional as a means of preventing rainwater from pooling beneath the oculus. While there, I neglected to check if there was a drainage trough anywhere.)

By the time we walked to nearby Piazza Navona, I was beginning to forget my financial worries, but still had to ask Beth to remind me to try to call my American bank number later in the afternoon after a payphone still failed to get me through to the Italian branch. Piazza Navona was originally a stadium during the reign of Emperor Domitian, an emperor popular with the people but so hated by the Senate that he was subject to damnatio memoriae. At that time it was used for athletic competitions, and may have been large enough for horse races as well. Since then, it has variously served as meeting place and market square. Today it is a combination of the two and much of the piazza is occupied by artists displaying their work. Some of them are typical caricature artists or the like, but a great many are legitimate painters with selections of fine work. Street performers also congregate at the Piazza Navona to play accordians, perform magic, or in one peculiar instance, play Michael Jackson with a hand puppet. On one occasion we saw a pair of young women tap dancing, only to walk through the piazza again some four hours later to find them still dancing.

The piazza is a beautiful work of Baroque art itself, with the Fountain of Four Rivers at the center, another work of archetypal Roman sculpture set about an Egyptian obelisk, for some reason. The Fountain depicts four river gods, and is probably an allegory for something, but I’m not sure what. The sculpture is a masterpiece of the 17th century, but the obelisk is nearly two millennia old. There are two other smaller fountains at either end of the piazza, one depicting Neptune and the other showing what appears to be a guy fighting a dolphin (I won’t pretend to understand that one). There are also a couple churches, neither of which we entered, which show off some bright Baroque design on the front – more about shape and form than the busy Gothic facades we saw earlier.

After passing through Piazza Navona, Beth and I took to wandering with no particular location in mind. Our wandering brought us across the Tiber and through an area full of large private villas – the Roman equivalent of rich suburbs. Somewhat bored of these more modern surroundings, we soon found an entrance to what appeared to be a park. We were taken up a long sloping road surrounded by trees and lawn. Eventually we came across a large group of busts upon pedestals, few of which we recognized, but likely Italian national heroes of one sort or another. The road came finally to a clearing in the trees and opened up to a roundabout in a plaza, with a huge bronze equestrian statue at the center. While this statue is impressive, we were drawn more to the railing along the east side of the plaza to our right. The road had brought us up a hill, the Gianicolo, and our height provided us with a wonderful view of Rome, as we had of Paris from Sacre Couer, and of Florence from Piazza Michaelangelo. A forest stretched out below us, giving way to the city, and from that place we could see the brown tile roofs of Rome punctuated by the occasional church or ancient monument. The monument to King Vittorio Emanuele II was especially prominent, with its tremendous bronze charioteers. The Castel Sant’Angelo towered to the north, the Colosseum stood to the south behind the ruins of the Forum, and the ancient dome of the Pantheon shone between them.

We continued walking the path over the Gianicolo, continually treated with the view to our right and with the pleasant park all about. Passing a villa labeled as the Finnish embassy (those lucky Finns), we found the road beginning to slope back down the other side, and came off the Gianicolo back into the bustling city. Walking a bit along the Tiber, we came to a large intersection where we happened to glance to our left. Rather to my surprise (though to Beth’s, I’m not sure – she had a map, after all), that road terminated at, of all things, the Vatican. We were planning to make a day of the Vatican the next day, but I proposed walking to it anyway to have a first look at the front of St. Peter’s Basilica, at least. I’ll save my description of the Vatican and the Basilica for a later post, but it’s necessary to speak some of this first encounter with the Vatican.

We walked for a while in the vast Piazza San Pietro and tried to interpret the Latin inscription on the pedestal bearing the Egyptian obelisk at the center of plaza. (I’d like to point out here that Rome is positively flooded with these ancient Egyptian obelisks, and I have no idea why. They frequently sit upon stone bases that bear Papal inscriptions. It makes me think that Egypt either has so many of these obelisks that they don’t know what to do with them, or Egypt is completely out of obelisks, because they’ve all been moved to Rome.) After a bit of discussion, we determined that yes, we had in fact entered Vatican City, and having established that a journey across national borders had just been undertaken, decided to sit a while for a rest. It was here, relaxing in the Vatican that I suddenly remembered our horrible monetary conundrum.

I checked the time and determined that it was business hours in the United States. I cursed my aging cell phone and its low battery capacity then, observing that I only had two bars of power left, which usually gives me ten minutes of talk time, at the outside. Then I would have ten minutes to fix the problem, or we might not eat that evening. I called my bank, there, from in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, and got through to a recording system that began talking me through entering my social security number into my phone keypad….with….agonizing….slowness. After successfully suppressing explosive rage at the slowness of the voice-recognizing recording system, the bank connected me to a human able to speak more than ten words per minute. I quickly explained my situation, and after some digging through her computer system, the rep was able to determine that my suspicion was correct – my card had been frozen as a result of attempted ATM transactions with an incorrect pin. Since I was calling and verifying no fraud was taking place, she informed me that she would be able to reactivate everything for me right there. After a minute or so she informed me that everything was set and my card should be working now. At this point, she asked me if there was an ATM nearby I could try it out on real quick, to which I responded that I was sitting in front of the Vatican and doubted they had an ATM inside. She laughed.

I thanked the rep and hung up shortly thereafter. I informed Beth that the necessary rituals and incantations were complete, and the glorious magic was restored to my card. Now, it was here that I then explained to Beth the true magnitude of our crisis, including the bit about maxing my credit card and being completely unable to use my debit card. As I said before, she thanked me for keeping her in the dark. (However, she was not completely in the dark. She said that when I had refused, earlier that day, the opportunity to buy myself a bottle of milk for fear of depleting our dwindling supply of cash, she realized that something was seriously wrong.) We left the Vatican happily, searching for an ATM so that I might exercise the privilege of my triumph.

With cash – oh, glorious cash! – in hand, and a working card in my wallet, we merrily threw ourselves back into the pedestrian masses of Rome to search for a suitable place to have dinner. Free of financial troubles, we discussed Kafka and Nietzsche over that meal, and I didn’t care how much it cost me. The fact that I was able to pay for it was quite sufficient. My sleep that night was well-earned.








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